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Painting the tins a pearl/metallic white....but then we'd have TWO big cube white-bikes....and people might not be able to tell us apart lol
They can tell, I have a touch of being nutz, you are full blown nutz
thats only partially true. I never put my engine in a trash can!
PS: the antigravity lithium batteries are NO FREAKIN JOKE....this bikes normally a bastard to start, especially if its been sitting a while. fired up within 2-3revs, and ive honestly never heard/felt it crank faster. kept power/ground to breaker and starter, and doubled up with #2ga cables straight from battery to starter, and wham, she spins like a top. 880 cranking amps is a glorious thing
Brah you have no idea, try having the same shovelhead as a daily/ trip bike for 35 years. I couldn't begin to list the trail of broken stuff I chased over that time and being honest more than a little was self induced.
5/16" heavy duty washers, stitched in from the back side (saved as much paint as we could)...fenders too damned thin (wish I had a TIG...not a mig), every strike blew a hole. thinking about JB-Weld to fill in the loose spot on the left side, maybe a little as body filler (i hate bondo, and this oughta be stronger), and then some ghetto spray can action (its mostly behind the plate/lightbar, probably wont see it)
5/16" heavy duty washers, stitched in from the back side (saved as much paint as we could)...fenders too damned thin (wish I had a TIG...not a mig), every strike blew a hole. thinking about JB-Weld to fill in the loose spot on the left side, maybe a little as body filler (i hate bondo, and this oughta be stronger), and then some ghetto spray can action (its mostly behind the plate/lightbar, probably wont see it)
Little tip for mig and thin stuff like that, use a backer block preferably a piece of copper but aluminum will do also in a pinch. Still gets blow through but allows a build up you grind and shape. Bare metal I use solder or wheel weight lead instead of bondo, takes a little practice but much better results that will not peel.
Little tip for mig and thin stuff like that, use a backer block preferably a piece of copper but aluminum will do also in a pinch. Still gets blow through but allows a build up you grind and shape. Bare metal I use solder or wheel weight lead instead of bondo, takes a little practice but much better results that will not peel.
no arguements here -- working with what I had, figuring the plan was to HOPEFULLY get it back together before sunday (thats gonna depend on my powdercoater, however)
2 coats of JB weld and some sanding, and sure...you can see it up close...but standing back 2-3 feet, you'd be hard pressed to notice if you didnt know it was there.
first 2 coats of primer are on, gonna try to spray the black tonight, and wetsand a bit to blend old and new. havent planned on clearing it yet, but we'll see how the black dries
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.