Clutch
97 was the last year for the spring plate. 98 up should have 9 frictions and no spring plate. How many miles on your ride and is it the original clutch....?
Just so you know. I've owned my 98 since 2003 and always had a problem finding neutral and when in neutral and going to put it into 1st gear the bike would lurch forward a tad. I did everything possible to eliminate this issue and nothing worked. I measured the amount of release at the the release plate with a dial indicator and was only getting .064" of travel at the release plate. It's ok for shifting to the next gear but was never enough to find neutral while running (hot or cold). I even tried a 21* ramp and it made no difference.. I learned to live with it... It didn't matter if it was the OEM 5 speed trans or even an Ultima 6 speed. They both had the same problem of not enough release. I suggest you measure the amount of travel at your release plate and go from there...
Just so you know. I've owned my 98 since 2003 and always had a problem finding neutral and when in neutral and going to put it into 1st gear the bike would lurch forward a tad. I did everything possible to eliminate this issue and nothing worked. I measured the amount of release at the the release plate with a dial indicator and was only getting .064" of travel at the release plate. It's ok for shifting to the next gear but was never enough to find neutral while running (hot or cold). I even tried a 21* ramp and it made no difference.. I learned to live with it... It didn't matter if it was the OEM 5 speed trans or even an Ultima 6 speed. They both had the same problem of not enough release. I suggest you measure the amount of travel at your release plate and go from there...
Here I'll quote myself...
I did read your post. Actually a couple times. Where my questions were coming from was a YouTube video in which the guy doing the clutch job didn’t remove the spring and plate at the back of the stack and his bike took off on him when he fired up the bike. He was using a Barnett kit with bad directions.
I like to research as much as I can to get a good understanding of what I’m doing first before I jump into it. Just wanted to make sure is all.
My first clutch job
I like to research as much as I can to get a good understanding of what I’m doing first before I jump into it. Just wanted to make sure is all.
My first clutch job
I did read your post. Actually a couple times. Where my questions were coming from was a YouTube video in which the guy doing the clutch job didn’t remove the spring and plate at the back of the stack and his bike took off on him when he fired up the bike. He was using a Barnett kit with bad directions.
I like to research as much as I can to get a good understanding of what I’m doing first before I jump into it. Just wanted to make sure is all.
My first clutch job
Your FSM will tell you how to do it step by step.
Did you measure the amount of movement in your release plate? You will need more than .070"to properly disengage the clutch.. .080" is better.
One more thing you never stated how many miles on this clutch pack, it's one of the best ones that Harley put out in many years.I have 40,000 on mine and 115 pounds of torque out of my EVO motor and it handles it no problem with the upgraded Screaming Eagle Spring diaphragm. I also have . 084" movement at my clutch release plate.
One more thing you never stated how many miles on this clutch pack, it's one of the best ones that Harley put out in many years.I have 40,000 on mine and 115 pounds of torque out of my EVO motor and it handles it no problem with the upgraded Screaming Eagle Spring diaphragm. I also have . 084" movement at my clutch release plate.
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Oct 22, 2018 at 08:33 AM.
With a fresh set of quality plates (I have Barnett kevlar) you should find changing much improved, however get into the habit, when practical, of selecting neutral as you come to a rest, not while stationary. That should further improve your success rate. I've owned BMWs almost as long as my Harleys and I learned that trick with them!
With a fresh set of quality plates (I have Barnett kevlar) you should find changing much improved, however get into the habit, when practical, of selecting neutral as you come to a rest, not while stationary. That should further improve your success rate. I've owned BMWs almost as long as my Harleys and I learned that trick with them!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.......what him said.......best to do exactly that
Did you measure the amount of movement in your release plate? You will need more than .070"to properly disengage the clutch.. .080" is better.
One more thing you never stated how many miles on this clutch pack, it's one of the best ones that Harley put out in many years.I have 40,000 on mine and 115 pounds of torque out of my EVO motor and it handles it no problem with the upgraded Screaming Eagle Spring diaphragm. I also have . 084" movement at my clutch release plate.
One more thing you never stated how many miles on this clutch pack, it's one of the best ones that Harley put out in many years.I have 40,000 on mine and 115 pounds of torque out of my EVO motor and it handles it no problem with the upgraded Screaming Eagle Spring diaphragm. I also have . 084" movement at my clutch release plate.
32k is nothing on the clutch.. especially if the motor is stock... Do you have the tools to measure the amount of movement at the clutch release plate.? I would do that before I start replacing parts...
I have a friend that had new clutch plates go out after 8 miles...
I had to go over to his house and show him how to adjust his clutch.











