Clutch
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 105
From: Indiana
Clutch
I know this topics been beat to death on this site, but I'm going to give it another shot. My 98 Road King Classic will not go into neutral when running. Very rarely can I get it into neutral when rolling up to a light (like once in 25 tries). It goes in when it's not running just fine.
I've done all the clutch adjustments at the clutch, and at the cable. Made sure the primary was filled up correctly with the right amount of fluid according to the shop manual.
I replaced the clutch cable. Triple checked the way the cable was supposed to be routed. Made sure the 3 ball bearings were set in place correctly at the trans.
Made clutch adjustments at the clutch locking nut at 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4, and 1 full turn from bottom out to see if I'd get any better results. Still can't find neutral.
Made adjustment at the pawl like the manual states, plus watching a few videos on it. Still the same. I replaced the primary chain tensioner with a Hayden self adjusting, no better.
I know if you fill the primary up to far with oil, the clutch plates will stick together, and will give poor shifting, so I'm paying close attention to fluid levels in the primary.
My question is, have I done everything I need to do before I start looking at the clutch as a culprit?
Is the clutch not disengaging the trans enough to slip it into neutral? Is the clutch the next logical step, or is the trans the problem?
I'm getting some hard shifting when I'm hitting the throttle is the only thing I'm noticing with the trans.
I've done all the clutch adjustments at the clutch, and at the cable. Made sure the primary was filled up correctly with the right amount of fluid according to the shop manual.
I replaced the clutch cable. Triple checked the way the cable was supposed to be routed. Made sure the 3 ball bearings were set in place correctly at the trans.
Made clutch adjustments at the clutch locking nut at 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4, and 1 full turn from bottom out to see if I'd get any better results. Still can't find neutral.
Made adjustment at the pawl like the manual states, plus watching a few videos on it. Still the same. I replaced the primary chain tensioner with a Hayden self adjusting, no better.
I know if you fill the primary up to far with oil, the clutch plates will stick together, and will give poor shifting, so I'm paying close attention to fluid levels in the primary.
My question is, have I done everything I need to do before I start looking at the clutch as a culprit?
Is the clutch not disengaging the trans enough to slip it into neutral? Is the clutch the next logical step, or is the trans the problem?
I'm getting some hard shifting when I'm hitting the throttle is the only thing I'm noticing with the trans.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
Likes: 3,085
From: NW AR
It does sound like the clutch is not releasing. If some of the plates come apart, that can cause that. Especially for the hard shifting when it's warmed up and moving. The only other thing I would suggest is trying ATF in there instead of the gear oil the MoCo is selling now. But it sounds more like a clutch plate came apart to me.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 105
From: Indiana
Thanks Dr. for the reply. The bikes been like this since I bought it this last summer. Buying a new plate set seems reasonable, but I didn't want to be chasing problems with new parts until I tried a few things first, and getting others thoughts on the site
I guess the next logical step is to take the plates out and look them over.
Thanks again
I guess the next logical step is to take the plates out and look them over.
Thanks again
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
Thanks Dr. for the reply. The bikes been like this since I bought it this last summer. Buying a new plate set seems reasonable, but I didn't want to be chasing problems with new parts until I tried a few things first, and getting others thoughts on the site
I guess the next logical step is to take the plates out and look them over.
Thanks again
I guess the next logical step is to take the plates out and look them over.
Thanks again
And make sure your primary chain adjuster isn't too tight.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,070
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From: Ohio
Checks Ronnies Harley parts breakdown and shows your bike has the inner clutch disc with the 9 rivets known to come apart and hangs going in gear, 98 year was the edge for a new style Twinkie clutch switch from the factory. Those brass rivets turn sideways and drag the clutch discs not allowing a clean release, most of the time you can find them in the bottom of the primary because they escape somehow. If it is the cause you just replace the clutch discs with a extra plate system from Barnett or Energy One.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Oct 21, 2018 at 12:32 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,005
Likes: 7,540
From: Poolville
97 was the last year for the spring plate. 98 up should have 9 frictions and no spring plate. How many miles on your ride and is it the original clutch....?
Just so you know. I've owned my 98 since 2003 and always had a problem finding neutral and when in neutral and going to put it into 1st gear the bike would lurch forward a tad. I did everything possible to eliminate this issue and nothing worked. I measured the amount of release at the the release plate with a dial indicator and was only getting .064" of travel at the release plate. It's ok for shifting to the next gear but was never enough to find neutral while running (hot or cold). I even tried a 21* ramp and it made no difference.. I learned to live with it... It didn't matter if it was the OEM 5 speed trans or even an Ultima 6 speed. They both had the same problem of not enough release. I suggest you measure the amount of travel at your release plate and go from there...
Just so you know. I've owned my 98 since 2003 and always had a problem finding neutral and when in neutral and going to put it into 1st gear the bike would lurch forward a tad. I did everything possible to eliminate this issue and nothing worked. I measured the amount of release at the the release plate with a dial indicator and was only getting .064" of travel at the release plate. It's ok for shifting to the next gear but was never enough to find neutral while running (hot or cold). I even tried a 21* ramp and it made no difference.. I learned to live with it... It didn't matter if it was the OEM 5 speed trans or even an Ultima 6 speed. They both had the same problem of not enough release. I suggest you measure the amount of travel at your release plate and go from there...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Oct 21, 2018 at 08:29 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 105
From: Indiana
I pulled the clutch plates. The manual says to scrap them at .143 Mine are at .148. The steel plates all look good. Flat, no grooves, or bluing.
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: almost there
Yep, ditch the spring plate junk and go with the extra plate. Energy one or barnett is good stuff.
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Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
Go with some good aftermarket fibers like Barnett which have at least twice as much friction material and you can get Kevlar plates which will last longer.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 105
From: Indiana
Are you talking about the damper spring at the back of the stack?