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already 130/130 plus a 124. Big /dumb motor not even squeezed��
sorry I thought you were still at 103 with the mr103 cam... my bad... Sorry... So where you going now 150+...? Like I said I think age is kicking in as well as CRS.... Lol....
Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Where I'm going to go with my shovel eventually, while 11.7-1 is crazy fun to play with it's a pain in the *** honestly, just the battery & starter games I've had to play have been epic. Kicker is the only reliable way to start it and with my bum hip and old tired *** that's gotten to be more than I want to deal with.
See it's another age thing.... It catches up and in tired of being tired...
Originally Posted by 1997bagger
In honesty, pulling some compression made my big cube so much more every day riding friendly and problem free, starting to forget how to work on one. Think it would be a good move for reliability, haven't regretted it one bit.
I'm only going to a .040" head gasket, maybe a drop of 6 psi. What did you do to drop your comp and how much, to what?
Originally Posted by Schex
Just giving you the usual joking around BS, good luck on the build and looking forward to the pictures and progress.
Yeah, I gotcha Chex mix..... Is that rice or wheat... Lol...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Nov 22, 2018 at 09:04 PM.
I'm only going to a .040" head gasket, maybe a drop of 6 psi. What did you do to drop your comp and how much, to what?
It's setting on factory advertised 10.2-1 from 10.8-1 with a 60 intake close 260/270 duration, these numbers may not make sense but a big cube is a different creature. At 10.2-1 and a 60 intake close it still won't turn a full revolution without compression releases and run the ignition timing on 4. In a 80" and 60 intake close at 10.2-1 would be real soft down low but the best my losing brain cell mind can come up with is the large cylinder volume being compressed in a big cube raises compression, other words a big cube will eat anything you throw at it.
These numbers will not work in a smaller engine but at 10.8-1 it was a plain out MF'r to start hot and built excessive heat, you should be able to gauge your compression adjustment by current starting and ignition timing being pulled but it sure sounds like your .040 install might be what your looking for.
Haven't touched that engine in 4 riding seasons since pulling back the compression so hope it works out well for you, lost some power but not working on it and just putting the bike in the wind is more pleasurable.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Nov 23, 2018 at 08:04 AM.
Early Christmas to myself... Lol... Now just have to find the time.... I have the gasket set as well.. Cometic C9766. As soon as I start the motor tear down the lifters need to go back to Fueling... Never could get them to quiet down hot... Cold, not a problem so Fueling wants them back... I think at this time I will also need to check lifter block bores... Never had an issue with oil pressure but it doesn't hurt to check...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Nov 23, 2018 at 03:10 PM.
LOL,,I guess, I think someone called me that in grade school.
On the other hand, you might want to do something about the valves hitting the pistons twice,,,,, lifter pump up, ,,uh,,, no
Schex, quick question but first... Over revving a motor can float a valve.. floating a valve can pump up up the lifter... Pumping up a preloaded lifter to .140" will smack a Piston that only has a .060" clearance valve to Piston.. I have new Beehive's that are good to .650" lift. What is the remedy to not smacking a Piston again....? Only set the preload to .100" on a .200" travel lifter or set the rev limiter to 6000 RPM...??? Thanks... I really don't want to do this again....
That sexy, S&S cases are a good as it gets, of all the brands I've worked with they have always been the best. Clean beefier castings, excellent fit and finish and the machining has alway been spot on, never had to rework anything with them unlike several other notable brands.
That sexy, S&S cases are a good as it gets, of all the brands I've worked with they have always been the best. Clean beefier castings, excellent fit and finish and the machining has alway been spot on, never had to rework anything with them unlike several other notable brands.
Thanks twisted.. yeah they are... I have a steel S$S breather in my OEM cases that should transfer over shouldn't it? My first case job...
Thanks twisted.. yeah they are... I have a steel S$S breather in my OEM cases that should transfer over shouldn't it? My first case job...
Who is going to line lap the pinion bearing race in for you ? That's the only non plug & play part beside checking the Timken bearings end play, use that as a set as it comes out of the box, they are matched with spacers. 99% of the time it's dead on but I have had a few I had to adjust.
Breather should be a direct swap just check fit and spin before assembly.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Nov 23, 2018 at 03:40 PM.
