Bike running rich
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 31
Likes: 2
From: Oslo
I agree with others, gotta find out what your current carb set up is, then go from there. Like THC asked, why did you remove the old one?
Is the current carb clean or something that has been sitting on a shelf for a while? If a stocker, then you probably looking at a 42 slow and around a 170 main.
Where did you get the carb from? Friend? Ebay? etc. Carb could have been taken apart, jets, changed, needle jet (not the needle but the NEEDLE JET) missing or installed upside down, dirty carb, jets, missing slow screw O-ring, hole in diaphragm, mis-adjusted float, etc.
Time to play detective and get a few baseline things determined. YD
Is the current carb clean or something that has been sitting on a shelf for a while? If a stocker, then you probably looking at a 42 slow and around a 170 main.
Where did you get the carb from? Friend? Ebay? etc. Carb could have been taken apart, jets, changed, needle jet (not the needle but the NEEDLE JET) missing or installed upside down, dirty carb, jets, missing slow screw O-ring, hole in diaphragm, mis-adjusted float, etc.
Time to play detective and get a few baseline things determined. YD
Carb came from a bike with 5000 miles on it. Seemed pretty clean. No broken parts or anything.
To answer all of you on why I changed the carb out. I just prefer the CV. Its a good carb! Have had them in all my bikes over the years, and no hassle, just this one. I do lots of riding in the mountains, which it can compensate for. S&S not so much. Better milage will also be a good bonus. My old S&S needed a good cleaning and rebuild, so I thought I could switch to something I knew worked for me in the past.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
i agree with you, Im gonna find the baseline then go fron there. Thought I should ask here about other things I should check before I go on adjusting carb.
Carb came from a bike with 5000 miles on it. Seemed pretty clean. No broken parts or anything.
To answer all of you on why I changed the carb out. I just prefer the CV. Its a good carb! Have had them in all my bikes over the years, and no hassle, just this one. I do lots of riding in the mountains, which it can compensate for. S&S not so much. Better milage will also be a good bonus. My old S&S needed a good cleaning and rebuild, so I thought I could switch to something I knew worked for me in the past.
I'll bet once you re-jet the carb for the smaller motor you will be fine.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,129
Likes: 12,690
From: South Carolina
The first thing you need to do is disassemble the carburetor and clean it.
You may be running rich because fuel is overfilling the bowl due to debris preventing the needle closing against the seat.
If that carburetor was running correctly on a stock bike previously, then jetting is not the issue.
You may be running rich because fuel is overfilling the bowl due to debris preventing the needle closing against the seat.
If that carburetor was running correctly on a stock bike previously, then jetting is not the issue.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,799
Likes: 7,827
From: SE Louisiana
The first thing you need to do is disassemble the carburetor and clean it.
You may be running rich because fuel is overfilling the bowl due to debris preventing the needle closing against the seat.
If that carburetor was running correctly on a stock bike previously, then jetting is not the issue.
You may be running rich because fuel is overfilling the bowl due to debris preventing the needle closing against the seat.
If that carburetor was running correctly on a stock bike previously, then jetting is not the issue.
Also make sure the enricher(choke) is sealing, with the enricher cable installed and closed, spray brake clean with a straw into the starter jet, look for leakage at the enricher drilling,
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,315
Likes: 1,663
From: Tampa
You're correct, the CV40 is an outstanding carb, when tuned properly.
You need to dive into that CV and see what you're working with. I'd recommend as a starting point:
3 turns out on the idle mixture screw
45 pilot
190 main
a single #4 brass washer under the needle (raise the needle)
drill slide hole out to 7/64"
That all should get you into the ballpark.
You need to dive into that CV and see what you're working with. I'd recommend as a starting point:
3 turns out on the idle mixture screw
45 pilot
190 main
a single #4 brass washer under the needle (raise the needle)
drill slide hole out to 7/64"
That all should get you into the ballpark.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
