Front motor mount
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 9,913
From: Florida's gorgeous East coast
Front motor mount
I’m the original owner of a 1985 FXRS with a BUNCH of miles on her. I’m curious to know what the lifespan of the front motor mount has been for other FXR riders.
What are the indicators that replacement is due, and what have you replaced the original one with.
thanks.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
I like the O.E. and Have replaced a Very Broken one with O.E. Evidenced by visual inspection as Broken.
There are others... But, Like the "downgrades" to Steel on Steel in the Rear, .... Vibration Increases... especially with the Very Hard ones..
I liked the way the FXR was when New... and Strive to keep it that way... because I like it, and It lasts quite a Long Time
37 Years On My '82... But "only" about 28 -30 Years on the '83...
While I do Not know when the MoCo quit properly Balancing Rubbermounted engines... I suspect that the newer... the more likely to Shake itself apart!!!
I can tell you that a Later Softail [balanced properly] engine in an FXR chassis is really ...exceptionally Smooth...
One symptom of a Bad front mount is significant engine movement... to the point sometimes Parts will hit things like the Frame... in extreme cases..
New Mounts will result in more "felt" vibration for the rider... ie less engine Movement!!!
There are others... But, Like the "downgrades" to Steel on Steel in the Rear, .... Vibration Increases... especially with the Very Hard ones..
I liked the way the FXR was when New... and Strive to keep it that way... because I like it, and It lasts quite a Long Time
37 Years On My '82... But "only" about 28 -30 Years on the '83...
While I do Not know when the MoCo quit properly Balancing Rubbermounted engines... I suspect that the newer... the more likely to Shake itself apart!!!
I can tell you that a Later Softail [balanced properly] engine in an FXR chassis is really ...exceptionally Smooth...
One symptom of a Bad front mount is significant engine movement... to the point sometimes Parts will hit things like the Frame... in extreme cases..
New Mounts will result in more "felt" vibration for the rider... ie less engine Movement!!!
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
If you have owned your bike from new and not done so yet, I recommend replacing the front and rear rubbers. They are cheap enough! Also replace the cleve blocks in the swingarm bearings with solid replacement bushings. You may be surprised by how improved your 'new' bike rides and handles! That is the best way of discovering the state of such things, as they all perish over time.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,079
Likes: 2,151
From: Ohio
The Harley upgrade "B" "C" "D" mount didn't pan out, the VRod front mount is the remake of the old factory mount that worked for years. Best thing you can do is use the old mount until it deteriorates, didn't really get anything special with one of those $125 ones either, the oldie but goody design works
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 9,913
From: Florida's gorgeous East coast
OK..I don't have a problem buying laser levels. Got a link or some kind of tutorial for how to use them..??
I'm in a small town in Florida where the only local Indy shop, while they are good "parts swappers", aren't much help on an older hi-mileage bike and of course NO dealer will even look at her.
Thanks.
I'm in a small town in Florida where the only local Indy shop, while they are good "parts swappers", aren't much help on an older hi-mileage bike and of course NO dealer will even look at her.
Thanks.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
I guess I never used no Laser level either... Only put a Couple FXR's together from Scratch tho... working on another [naked frame just now] so maybe I'll learn something???
Oh... and thanks for the info on the V-rod Mount being same as old style... the one I like...
Oh... and thanks for the info on the V-rod Mount being same as old style... the one I like...
The Harley upgrade "B" "C" "D" mount didn't pan out, the VRod front mount is the remake of the old factory mount that worked for years. Best thing you can do is use the old mount until it deteriorates, didn't really get anything special with one of those $125 ones either, the oldie but goody design works
Last edited by Racepres; Jan 24, 2019 at 07:36 AM.
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From: Viet Vet, crossroads
OK..I don't have a problem buying laser levels. Got a link or some kind of tutorial for how to use them..??
I'm in a small town in Florida where the only local Indy shop, while they are good "parts swappers", aren't much help on an older hi-mileage bike and of course NO dealer will even look at her.
Thanks.
I'm in a small town in Florida where the only local Indy shop, while they are good "parts swappers", aren't much help on an older hi-mileage bike and of course NO dealer will even look at her.
Thanks.
First to keep it all simple and est what you need for parts-
Lock your bike straight up and dwn with a quality level vertical on front disk (a bike lift is good for this operation )
For now just eyeball front and rear tire make sure they are lined up by moving rear end left / right
Now put the other quality level on rear disk vertically.
Jump up and dwn on the suspension a couple times. Is the front still lever ? Make it so-now look at the rear, Tell me what you have.
If they are both NOT reading Zero (level) STOP right there and rebuild the swing arm AS NO AMOUNT OF ALIGNMENT WILL FIX WORN OUT BUSHINGS
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,802
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From: SE Louisiana
OK..I don't have a problem buying laser levels. Got a link or some kind of tutorial for how to use them..??
I'm in a small town in Florida where the only local Indy shop, while they are good "parts swappers", aren't much help on an older hi-mileage bike and of course NO dealer will even look at her.
Thanks.
I'm in a small town in Florida where the only local Indy shop, while they are good "parts swappers", aren't much help on an older hi-mileage bike and of course NO dealer will even look at her.
Thanks.
I use the Husky digital protractor and one craftsman magnetic laser, I get away with using one by drawing a line on the floor when it's on the rear rotor, then switch it to the front rotor, you'll understand what I'm saying after watching the video.
I put the bike on the floor jack, use quarters for shims to level it.
