That's cool... How's the clutch work now?..

 

Much as it did before the oil debacle ..... it acted funny in 4-5th before so I’m wondering if it’s a clutch adjustment.
Since I’ve had it it always seem like the clutch was sticking or dragging and I was told by a mechanic to just write it it’s from the clutch not being used for so many years because it sat for a long time I don’t know sounded funny to me but it might be

 

No, he's right. A clutch pack can setup after sitting especially if' it's been a couple years.. I would take apart the clutch and sand the steels and frictions if necessary. It looks like the primary is from 84-88. There shouldn't be a spring plate in the clutch pack. they didn't start using that POS till 90-97. Have you checked you shift pawl adjustment?

 

No shift paw adjustment...l have no clue about that clutch stuff....YET. After I cleaned clutch pack and belt and interior of primary it sat overnight and in am oil on floor, think there is a missing plug inside the primary that screws into the crank case maybe, don’t know now have electrical issue, batt was good n hot, tried cranking but The Silla Noyd kicked out of 50 times travel next day I started to kick in then dead now the battery is DOA and it’s brand new . Never has wanted to start almost like like it’s high compression and weak starter but other times it cranked fine so now everything is dead till I mess with getting a battery. Seems it’s one thing after another.........frush a ter rationnnn

 

Funny I just won an auction on eBay for a horseshoe oil tank ....like I need that at the moment LOL

 

#1 - Your belt is entirely borked as oil has definitely been pressed into it's internal cracks and crevices and will not work it's way out. It will fail early as the oil breaks down the rubber. Be prepared to shell out a bill or so ($100-$150) to get a new one. (IN THEORY, you could let the bike idle with the primary cover off and spray brake cleaner in it and let the flinging motion throw the oil and brake cleaner off. I wouldn't condone it for a long term solution, but for emergencies - doable. Also leave your drain plug off in the future (and maybe some nice vented or "missing" covers) for buddies who "know" what they're doing.
#2 - If it's a BDL kit - it's pretty simple to do - you don't even need to remove the crank pulley. Put a box or catch tray under the clutch basket (there are ball bearings (32) that the PP uses against the clutch spring). Undo the 6 torx bolts hold the Clutch Spring to the PP and the PP to the clutch pack, and drop everything into the catch pan. Use a long thin prybar on two opposite sideswith a rag over their tips and pop out the PP (the center clutch rod is threaded and the other end has two viton orings on it making it somewhat a challenge to remove). Pull all the plates out - clean them with brake cleaner (can bake them in the oven too if the wife's not around) and burn that stuff off. Then soak them in Type F per instructions and let drip dry for 24 hours.
While doing this, get a 1-1/4" socket and undo the clutch basket nut (opposite than normal threads here, don't bork the shaft by thinking righty tighty lefty loosey) then go to your local auto parts store and rent a 5 ton 3 jaw puller for $50 and pull the basket off slowly - working the belt off the crank pulley with your fingers at the same time. Of course you could just cut the belt too since it's already borked and skip the niceties). Clean both crank pulley and clutch basket sucker up with brake cleaner. Then clean the splines of the shaft and the splines in the basket and reapply with tons of red loctite (if it's a splined shaft, tapered shafts don't need it) and put basket back on there with the new belt. I had to use a piece of wood with a rag over it, and an 8lb hammer and gently tap around the shaft to push the basket back on until seated. I pushed the belt on with my fingers gently the first few mm, and as I pushed the basket back on I had to use the same rag and wood and hammer and gently tapped the belt back around the crank at the same time. Works without a hitch.

 

Avenger, nice detailed information, just what I was looking for., thank you much. Yes the plan is to run without the drain plug and I’m going to make a custom vented derby cover or modify the current one for heat Disbursement. I know heat is hard on belts.

l don’t know the make of belt kit but know it has less than 650 miles on it. It was ridden about half a mile with oil in the primary....not saying the belt won’t fail early lm sure it will, but everything cleaned up well with brake cleaner an the straw. (Oddly enough the belt was not slathered with oil as I expected) Maybe it last till I get the bike up and running the way l want it before I have to tear down clutch since I just discovered I have a short, “(

 

Belts do not like being oil dipped, change it or it'll stretch out quicker than my ex wife did. Just clean everything else and go for it, run shovels this way for decades.

 

Ok will get a new belt. Any brand suggestions

 

Who ever the kit was made by, each is different and you need to know. If you don't get some pictures up of the whole system and we'll figure it out for you.