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Screws did not back out, and the retention plate was mounted solid. All the parts are getting replaced. Spacer does show some damage also.
I have never been in the primary other than to change out the stator a few years ago. Never touched the sprocket. Pretty sure it is all factory original stuff.
To me it looks like the sprocket and nut have been wobbling around for awhile. So was the nut loose from the factory? I have no idea. Did not notice anything drive related like vibration, noise, etc.
Yes, the main drive gear seal was just pulled out by me in that pic, that is not the way I found it...
The problem has me stumped, but again, everything is getting replaced. YD
Vibration I mentioned wouldn't be something you'd feel but it would be enough to account for the pitting on both those surfaces, doubt it was wobbling. Splines in those sprocket wear out, not uncommon, once they start moving just a matter of time and it accelerates pretty quick.
The bike just turned 40,000 miles. Looks like I got to it just in time.
This is a couple of before removal pics. I already broke the 1/4 inch locking plates loose in the pics.
BTW. thank you all for passing on your comments and knowledge. It is much appreciated. This is my first time digging into this. Fear of the unknown I guess. YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; May 27, 2019 at 06:03 AM.
See the gap between the bearing race and 5th gear.? normally that race walks right up to 5th gear. I would check to see if 5th gear walked a little or the mainshaft walked out on the trap door bearings... To check the nuts on the mainshaft and counter shaft it's best to put the trans into 2 gears (pull trans cover and shift drum) to lock it up and then tighten to 45-55 ft lb. According to my 98 manual...
Well I went for my test ride and so far so good, the inner primary seal is bone dry so no leaks.
Yankee dog: while I'm waiting on parts I clean stuff including nuts and bolts. Get them squeaky clean so when you reassemble with loctite it will hold.
See the gap between the bearing race and 5th gear.? normally that race walks right up to 5th gear. I would check to see if 5th gear walked a little or the mainshaft walked out on the trap door bearings... To check the nuts on the mainshaft and counter shaft it's best to put the trans into 2 gears (pull trans cover and shift drum) to lock it up and then tighten to 45-55 ft lb. According to my 98 manual...
All I have to say is Damn!
Yes, I will take your word for it and pull the right side trans cover and check those nuts. Which means, pulling the exhaust and trans top cover. That's OK, just a little disappointing to be adding another step to this project.
Once I get to it, can I just unbolt and let the outer trans cover hang or move off to the side with the clutch cable still connected and not have to mess with removing the cable/ball and ramp mechanism while I check those nuts?
Should I just check the torque or should I remove them, loctite, then re-assemble? (red or blue if any). Thinking out loud, how much trouble would it be while I'm in there to replace the shift pawl spring while I'm in there?
Going to take a break and have a couple beers this evening. Again a little discouraged, but I know it's worth checking and 98hotrodfatboy, thank you for raising that point. Placing an order for side cover gasket, trap door gasket, (have the top cover gasket). My local dealer don't stock anything for these old bikes...YD
Carl, glad it's all worked out ! I am envious!!! Ride safe and enjoy. Thanks for starting this thread!
Bolts have been soaked, wire wheel to the threads, and break cleaned. Still have a few female threads in the engine and tranny to clean up the old silicone. Shift shaft, jackshaft seal, and baker hi torque bearing pressed into replacement inner primary.
New belt is on the bike, that was easy, just had to remove the upper and lower belt gaurds and one bolt on the bottom of the shock. Did not have to pull the rear wheel so that was a little bonus.
Lining everything up with the replacement primary still has me concerned, but that is a while off for now.
Hope everyone had a safe holiday, and thank you to all brother and sister veterans!!! YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; May 27, 2019 at 05:26 PM.
Yes you can let it hang. Sorry it's disappointing but something moved to cause the nut and retainer to wear like that.. Just trying to be preventative. As twisted said.. Never seen that before..
Pulling exhaust and covers apart as we speak, but I am curious how the 5th gear can "walk".
I can understand the mainshaft nut coming loose on trap door side allowing the mainshaft to move outward towards the left side of the bike, but don't follow how that 5th gear can walk.
What I assume your referring to is inward or walking to to right side of the bike? Again just trying to process it in my head and not sure how I determine if the 5th gear has walked..
Edit, my 1994 manual says 27-33 ft lbs on the main and counter shaft nuts. Is the 45 to 55 lbs torque value an update? Thanks, YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; May 29, 2019 at 03:59 PM.
Screws did not back out, and the retention plate was mounted solid. All the parts are getting replaced. Spacer does show some damage also.
I have never been in the primary other than to change out the stator a few years ago. Never touched the sprocket. Pretty sure it is all factory original stuff.
To me it looks like the sprocket and nut have been wobbling around for awhile. So was the nut loose from the factory? I have no idea. Did not notice anything drive related like vibration, noise, etc.
Yes, the main drive gear seal was just pulled out by me in that pic, that is not the way I found it...
The problem has me stumped, but again, everything is getting replaced. YD
that main gear looks like it suffered typical damage from a loose pulley too. when you pulled that spacer out did you finger nail test it for any steps in the splines? if you can feel anything different in the splines you need to replace the main gear too. if you don't you'll be doing the whole job over shortly. it happened to me.
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