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Medium well done primary

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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 06:54 PM
  #61  
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I understand YD.. Right now it's a crap shoot that you're willing to take.. just don't beat on it,..
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 07:09 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by bagga
if the fifth gear is shot and the new pulley wobbles because of the splines it will leak like a **** and you might have to go with another new pulley when you redo it. having said that.... it's your bike do as you wish.
Yep, aware of the potentials...if things go south then it gets tucked away in the garage with a pan under it and a tarp over it. YD
 
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 06:25 PM
  #63  
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Two short 20 mile test runs and all the oil is staying where it supposed to stay. Bike rides, runs, sounds and shifts same as before with no issues.

Engine and trans alignment to the inner primary was fighting me until I discovered I still had and exhaust bracket mount connecting the exhaust pipe to the trans. Essentially preventing me from moving the engine independent of the trans for proper alignment. Once I figured that out and disconnected it, everything lined up easily. Glad I did a few dry fitments first, before using sealant on the contact points and before installing the inner primary bearing seal.

An electric impact (110 volt) is the shitz for the sprocket nut. Glad I borrowed one. Will be picking one of those up in the next few days. It's a great tool. My older air impact will do lug nuts and such, but a 7.5 or 8.0 amp impact is impressive. It made removing and tightening that sprocket nut so easy.

Thank you all for the help. Keeping fingers crossed. YD
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 03:50 AM
  #64  
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So I did the brake hold method to both remove and reinstall my primary nut. I put the bike in 5th gear and held both brakes down and the lined up and use my fat *** on the breaker bar and torque wrench each way.

I will say that that i read posts on impact guns forcing internal crank bearings from their bosses. Is that a legitimate concern?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 06:40 AM
  #65  
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Good question, I imagine if over torqued, anything is possible. Also heard they can rattle magnets off the rotor when removing compensator.

My install was on the trans/belt sprocket, and harley has instructions: torque to 50 ft lbs then rotate another 30 to 40 degrees. So marking the nut, sprocket, and the outside of the socket gave me a visual on how tight to get it. YD
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 11:13 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Yankee Dog
Good question, I imagine if over torqued, anything is possible. Also heard they can rattle magnets off the rotor when removing compensator.

My install was on the trans/belt sprocket, and harley has instructions: torque to 50 ft lbs then rotate another 30 to 40 degrees. So marking the nut, sprocket, and the outside of the socket gave me a visual on how tight to get it. YD
The book mentions not exceeding 150ftlbs - not sure why other than the threads on the final drive gear not being good enough to withstand much more than that. The hardened locking washer you put the screws through has 12 corners in it's center. What I did was torque it down to 50ftlbs and then lined it up with the 2 bolts that go through it. Then I rotated it to the right one notch on the nut and torqued it down (reverse threads, so turning left) until I got it realigned back so those 2 bolts would work again. each notch on that 12point locking washer is 30 degrees, so not a hard thing to do. But man it took an 18" breaker, my wife holding both the brakes and me bouncing from my knees on up to get that damn thing aligned that 30 degrees. tough SOB.
 

Last edited by avenger09123; Jun 5, 2019 at 11:14 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 08:09 AM
  #67  
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18" breaker? I think I went 3' on mine when I torqued it.

carl
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 12:38 PM
  #68  
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What? Im fat. 18 inches was all I needed ha.
 
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