primary leak 97 flstc
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 2
From: Orlando
primary leak 97 flstc
I have a leak on either my inner primary or shaft seal. No hurry to fix but I'll get around to it next month. While I'm in there any reccomendations on what to replace . Bike has 32000 on it. Figure I'll take care of everything at once. Seals, gaskets ,parts???
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 8
From: Powder Springs, GA
Check your primary chain tensioner while you are in there to see how worn it is. I would also make sure your stator is charging good while you are at it.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 306
Likes: 7
From: Somewhere, PA
+1 on the above, and I also make it a point to check out and clean my clutch/plates/etc. whenever I have to get in there. I also try to clean out the slime that's been getting into all the crevices in the backside of the primary cover, the small areas of the inner primary, you get the point. Basically, get her all checked out and clean if you're gonna tear it down that far...
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 2
From: Orlando
Picked up primary rebuild kit . inner primary bearing and a chain tensioner shoe and plan on fixing everything this weekend. What else do I need ? gasket sealent? . hylomar ?. bearing grease? Any suggestions? Pretty hot here in Fla I might pull the bike into my living room on the tile. Just lay down a tarp.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 601
Likes: 6
From: Aruba
Picked up primary rebuild kit . inner primary bearing and a chain tensioner shoe and plan on fixing everything this weekend. What else do I need ? gasket sealent? . hylomar ?. bearing grease? Any suggestions? Pretty hot here in Fla I might pull the bike into my living room on the tile. Just lay down a tarp.
Don't use gasket sealant. No need to with today's better surfaces and gaskets unless your gasket surface is all marred up. I do put a very small bead of silicone around the o-ring for the engine to primary cover. Hylomar also works well in place of the silicone. Also, silicon in the stator plug where is passes through the front of the engine. The tiny screws that hold the bracket for the stator plug pass all the way through to the engine. Be sure to lock-tite them well so that oil cannot leak through.
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Road Master
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From: Orlando
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Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 8
From: Powder Springs, GA
Hardest part for me is getting out one of the snap rings. I am cheap so I have a crappy snap ring puller and have to combine a flat tip screw driver to help. Then just use a good size socket to pound the old bearing out. Then pound or press the new one in. Sometimes it can help to put the new bearing in the freezer for a bit.
That is my method for what it is worth.
That is my method for what it is worth.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 601
Likes: 6
From: Aruba
The problem with using "cheaper" snap ring pliers on the main primary bearing or the clutch ramp isn't so much that they are cheap. It's that the radius of the snap ring is so big that a smaller set of snap ring pliers force the snap ring off the ends when you start to squeeze the snap ring. You need a bigger set of pliers so there's not so much angle between the ends of the pliers and the pivot point. That said, with a little work and maybe a screwdriver or two, it can be done. Too many times and it's easier to buy a bigger set of pliers. (Haven't done that yet myself.)