Clutch adjustment
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 124
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From: Arnold, Penna
Clutch adjustment
I'm having some problems with getting my clutch adjusted. I've changed the clutch for Barnett extra plate clutch kit, replaced the clutch spring with a Barnett spring, changed the clutch cable with Barnett Stealth cable also. I had tried to use a Burley Lite pull clutch kit but could not get the clutch to not drag with an 1/8 inch of play at the handle. I've taken out the Burley Lite Pull kit and still have to have the clutch cable set well beyond the point of the factory 1/8 of slack at the clutch handle. The clutch grabs about a half inch after releasing the clutch lever. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 339
From: Northeastern Indiana
You didn't mention year and model but this should work …
Introduce some free play in the clutch cable so the lever is loose at the grip end. Remove the derby cover and loosen the 11/16 lock nut in the center of the clutch pack. Use a 7/32 allen wrench to turn the threaded screw in only until you feel very slight resistance, like it touched something. You can do this a few times to make sure you are at the right spot. Once you feel the touch back out the threaded screw 1/4 of a turn, and lock the lock nut in place.
Using the adjuster on the clutch cable make the housing longer until you have about 1/8 inch gap at the perch. Pull the clutch lever several times to make sure the ***** have seated in the ramps. Don't get hung up on the 1/8 inch thing, it is just to get you close.
You can use the cable adjuster to set the friction zone where you like it. If you want the friction zone closer to the grip make the adjustment shorter, if you want the friction zone further from the grip make the adjustment longer. Once you are done replace the derby cover and lock the cable adjuster in place. Do a test ride … if you need to move the friction zone use the cable adjuster … don't about the 1/8 inch.
Introduce some free play in the clutch cable so the lever is loose at the grip end. Remove the derby cover and loosen the 11/16 lock nut in the center of the clutch pack. Use a 7/32 allen wrench to turn the threaded screw in only until you feel very slight resistance, like it touched something. You can do this a few times to make sure you are at the right spot. Once you feel the touch back out the threaded screw 1/4 of a turn, and lock the lock nut in place.
Using the adjuster on the clutch cable make the housing longer until you have about 1/8 inch gap at the perch. Pull the clutch lever several times to make sure the ***** have seated in the ramps. Don't get hung up on the 1/8 inch thing, it is just to get you close.
You can use the cable adjuster to set the friction zone where you like it. If you want the friction zone closer to the grip make the adjustment shorter, if you want the friction zone further from the grip make the adjustment longer. Once you are done replace the derby cover and lock the cable adjuster in place. Do a test ride … if you need to move the friction zone use the cable adjuster … don't about the 1/8 inch.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
I'm having some problems with getting my clutch adjusted. I've changed the clutch for Barnett extra plate clutch kit, replaced the clutch spring with a Barnett spring, changed the clutch cable with Barnett Stealth cable also. I had tried to use a Burley Lite pull clutch kit but could not get the clutch to not drag with an 1/8 inch of play at the handle. I've taken out the Burley Lite Pull kit and still have to have the clutch cable set well beyond the point of the factory 1/8 of slack at the clutch handle. The clutch grabs about a half inch after releasing the clutch lever. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1) Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2) Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3) Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4) Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go.
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting. Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1) Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2) Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3) Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4) Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go.
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting. Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 124
Likes: 13
From: Arnold, Penna
Here is a little update. I got a Clutchlite easy pull clutch. This is the bottom ramp that the 3 steel ball s ride on. I re-installed the Burley Easy pull kit and adjusted the clutch cable. My clutch lever pulls like butter. Stop and go traffic is no longer a problems for my older hands.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
Here is a little update. I got a Clutchlite easy pull clutch. This is the bottom ramp that the 3 steel ball s ride on. I re-installed the Burley Easy pull kit and adjusted the clutch cable. My clutch lever pulls like butter. Stop and go traffic is no longer a problems for my older hands.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 124
Likes: 13
From: Arnold, Penna
One is the Burly brand easy pull that connects to the top ramp plate. I also installed a Clutchlite lower ramp plate that has longer ramps for the steel *****. Together they make the clutch lever super easy to pull.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 186
Likes: 38
From: bendigo
drag
with the clutch adjusted by the book and clutch lever fully pulled in should the rear wheel easily rotate? Bike cant be any colder.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,023
Likes: 12,545
From: South Carolina
The bike has a wet clutch, so there is a lot of drag between the discs and plates even when the clutch lever is pulled in, especially when cold.
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 186
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From: bendigo
more clutch
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