Cyco pushrods for EVO
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Cyco pushrods for EVO
Anyone familiar with Cyco gaskets & parts?
I see some adjustable pushrods with tubes and o-rings online.
Cyco appears to be suppliers to independent shops.
Looking to change the cam bearing on a 1998 Evo Road King.
I want the bike to be reliable and not really thinking about changing CAM since bike is M & M fuel injected and do not want to mess with Power Commander calibration.
I could do a mild cam like an EV13 but then injectors may not compensate and current performance is OK with me.
Basically the bike runs great for me.
I am not a racer and very much more of a cruiser.
Bike has about 50,000 miles and is in excellent condition.
I would conduct service just because of cam bearing replacement (preventive maintenance).
Has a K & N air filter in factory box, a Power Commander and re-worked factory slipons
Seen a kit that throws in the lifters for just a little more but then i guess that would require change of cam so lifter rollers match lobes or am i incorrect?
Link: https://cycogasket.com/evolution/push-rod-kit-evo.html
I see some adjustable pushrods with tubes and o-rings online.
Cyco appears to be suppliers to independent shops.
Looking to change the cam bearing on a 1998 Evo Road King.
I want the bike to be reliable and not really thinking about changing CAM since bike is M & M fuel injected and do not want to mess with Power Commander calibration.
I could do a mild cam like an EV13 but then injectors may not compensate and current performance is OK with me.
Basically the bike runs great for me.
I am not a racer and very much more of a cruiser.
Bike has about 50,000 miles and is in excellent condition.
I would conduct service just because of cam bearing replacement (preventive maintenance).
Has a K & N air filter in factory box, a Power Commander and re-worked factory slipons
Seen a kit that throws in the lifters for just a little more but then i guess that would require change of cam so lifter rollers match lobes or am i incorrect?
Link: https://cycogasket.com/evolution/push-rod-kit-evo.html
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I would prefer to spend nothing but i keep reading about the cam bearing being a caged unit as opposed to the torrington B-138 and apparently it might be a weakness.
Ideally i would just change the bearing but that requires removal of rocker covers to remove stock rods.
I changed those rocker cover gaskets a while back and it was a project due to frame being so close to rocker covers.
I had to remove front motor mount to drop engine in order to gain a tiny amount of clearance to remove rocker cover bolts .
If lifters can handle another 50,000 miles then maybe some adjustable rods and a bearing would be enough.
Any thoughts? do nothing or consider some S & S quicki rods and a bearing?
My $0.02:
If this was my bike, I'd for sure change out that cam bearing. I think you're on the right track.
From there, rather than go to adjustable pushrods, I'd pull the cylinders and re-gasket the whole top end with Cometic MLS stuff. Keep your original pushrods. Take the money you don't spend on pushrods and get new S&S lifters instead.
I picked up a rocker cover tool a while back. Little nub of allen wrench on the end of a flat bar. Makes getting to that rear one a bit easier.
If you don't want to pull the whole top end, then S&S quickies and a bearing and you're golden.
If this was my bike, I'd for sure change out that cam bearing. I think you're on the right track.
From there, rather than go to adjustable pushrods, I'd pull the cylinders and re-gasket the whole top end with Cometic MLS stuff. Keep your original pushrods. Take the money you don't spend on pushrods and get new S&S lifters instead.
I picked up a rocker cover tool a while back. Little nub of allen wrench on the end of a flat bar. Makes getting to that rear one a bit easier.
If you don't want to pull the whole top end, then S&S quickies and a bearing and you're golden.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,026
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From: South Carolina
At 50,000 miles, the lifters are definitely due for a change.
I`m not a fan of adjustable pushrods, I would rather spend a couple of hours and remove the rocker boxes, keeping the OEM pushrods, and save some cash also.
Like Omaha said, you could pay for a set of lifters with the money saved.
New OEM lifters, S&S or Johnson Hylift.
You can get the Johnson HyLift units from http://www.larrysmotorcyclemachine.com/
I`m not a fan of adjustable pushrods, I would rather spend a couple of hours and remove the rocker boxes, keeping the OEM pushrods, and save some cash also.
Like Omaha said, you could pay for a set of lifters with the money saved.
New OEM lifters, S&S or Johnson Hylift.
You can get the Johnson HyLift units from http://www.larrysmotorcyclemachine.com/
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 1,730
From: In The Woods, PA
During the refresh of my '97, I got rid of the adjustable pushrods and put stock pushrods back in. Should be ready for fist fire on Sunday!
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I like the idea of re-using original solid pushrods and staying original but the rocker gasket changeout was a royal pain last time.
I had the joy of doing one rocker twice due to misaligned gasket. on that 3 piece cover system.
It required release of engine link on top, release of engine link on front bottom, disconnection of exhaust supports, disconnection of rear exhaust support at transmission, removal of front motor mount and then front of motor would drop down. Then had to use a cut allen piece to remove top cover with a carb wrench..access was very tight. Just enough to get bolt loose and remove cover.
Kinda/sorta makes someone understand how some individuals drilled holes through frame back bone for access.
Gasket set would probably be about $25.00..
Some SS quicki would probably be about $150...financially the re-use of solid versus adjustable rods would be about $125 more but requires labor.
Right now the bike has zero leaks and i would hate to introduce a leak with a change-out of those gaskets.
Do the adjustable suck?
Also, I thought if you changed lifters then you were suppose to change cam too due to roller to cam mesh ?
I had the joy of doing one rocker twice due to misaligned gasket. on that 3 piece cover system.
It required release of engine link on top, release of engine link on front bottom, disconnection of exhaust supports, disconnection of rear exhaust support at transmission, removal of front motor mount and then front of motor would drop down. Then had to use a cut allen piece to remove top cover with a carb wrench..access was very tight. Just enough to get bolt loose and remove cover.
Kinda/sorta makes someone understand how some individuals drilled holes through frame back bone for access.
Gasket set would probably be about $25.00..
Some SS quicki would probably be about $150...financially the re-use of solid versus adjustable rods would be about $125 more but requires labor.
Right now the bike has zero leaks and i would hate to introduce a leak with a change-out of those gaskets.
Do the adjustable suck?
Also, I thought if you changed lifters then you were suppose to change cam too due to roller to cam mesh ?
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,005
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From: Poolville
As everyone is saying.....I definitely would be replacing the lifters they're kind of a serviceable unit. As for the pushrods the only time you really need to go adjustable is if you shave the heads and you change the distance between the rockers and lifters and in your case you're not. So why bother just lift the rockers and do it that way, stick with the stock....
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 942
Likes: 323
From: Grew up in Texas, moved to AZ
I feel you really don't want to mess with your leak free rocker box covers, then I would go with adjustable PRs, Johnson lifthers, EV-13 cam, new cam bearing, a couple of gaskets, and a shim for the cam.
