Update:
The upgraded full compliment bearing was installed in order to replace the INA bearing.
Koyo makes the B-138 bearing.
An EV13 cam was installed.
A new factory plastic breather was installed.
The correct spacer was used for Cam along with re-use of original thrust washer as per measurements.
New Highlift Johnson Lifters #A2303 installed.
Genuine James Gasket brand cam seal/gasket kit installed (it is an 18 piece kit).
Used the alignment bolts for lifters.
All gaskets/seals in the area changed.
Used the S & S Quickee rods...BTW they look and feel like good quality parts.
I like the factory V2 emblem on timer cone so I tapped the thick metal plate for allen bolts instead of the factory rivets Although i have correct rivets available.
Bike pulls from past idle very strongly, continues to pull from 1st-4th gear, top of 5th gear seems to be similar but better and bike felt much lighter if that makes sense.
The factory push rods tube covers were shortened/cut shorter as per S & S instructions in order to avoid push rod adjuster strike.
All parts removed observed in excellent condition with little to no wear evident.

Ridden about 40 to 50 miles and runs well but I notice a tick tick tick noise as if coming from push rods or maybe rockers...noise sounds like it is right behind the air box.
The factory EVO air box cover seems to amplify the tick tick tick.
The noise is most noticeable at idle or just above idle and then as RPM increases the regular engine noise seems to mask it but it is possible to hear it..

Any chance i adjusted the rods incorrectly or something is incorrect.
Push rods adjusted at TDC and lengthened to just touching lifters and then added 2 FULL turns and two FLATS.
Waited until rods could be spun with two fingers and then went to next rod.
Then put rear at TDC and repeated.
Paperwork suggests 4 full turns but i had found a few recommendations for Highlift Johnson lifters suggesting the two FULL and two FLATS of nut.
Could it be that or something else?

 

I have received no further feedback although it looks like post has gotten over 1,700 views.
Continued investigation will take place when i have a chance.
The bike got a flat (drywall screw) during trial testing so there was a set back but i guess i got to test the slime effectiveness.
I took upper pushrod tube clips off and slid the pushrod tube covers up and down to view situation and there does not appear to be any strike/witness marks on the S & S adjustable pushrods.
Thinking maybe pushrod was just too loose?

 

I believe you are correct in that you adjusted the push rods too short. You should follow S&S recommendation. It calls for 4 full turns. With 2 full turns, you are only getting .050 travel on your lifter, which when your engine heats up and cylinders expand, you will get more valvetrain noise for sure. Normal lifter travel is .200, and most PR adjustment will get the lifters down halfway ( number of PR turns depends on the TPI of said PR) Re-adjust and you should be fine.

 

Thank you for taking the time to provide an explanation.

I will loosen and start from scratch to make sure all 4 push rods are at 4 full turns each as per your confirmation and S & S instructions.
The S & S quikee are 32 threads per inch.
The suggested 4 full turns would be .0313 X 4 = 0.1252 per instructions.

Just trying to figure out how they made the noise.
Since i did only 2 turns and 2 flats it would seem like I was at .0626 + .0104= .073
VS
The 0.1252 in instructions.
So i was at 58% of suggested so it was way off specs.

Did they make noise because the rockers were getting tapped by pushrods instead of actually being lifted thus causing the ticky ticky ticky ticky noise.
Kinda sorta like the clack from hitting a billiard ball with a billiard/pool stick instead of pushing ball with stick.

 

That's probably the cause of your ticking. Some light ticking is common when new PRs are getting to know old rockers. Also, summer weather will affect the "thickness" of oil. Some folks have reduced their noise by running straight wt oil, or putting in ear plugs. :-)

 

If you are using the Hy-lift Johnson lifters #A2303 then I suggest you get information directly from them. These are slow bleed rate lifters and if you adjust them up too 4 full turns out, it's very possible you'll smack a position at higher rpm's... Not all lifters have .200" of travel..
Here's a link for their lifter adjustment...
https://www.amsmotomachine.com/index...lifter-install
I use nothing but S&S lifters... And those lifters can be adjusted to .140" no problem... You'll have to get used to the tick or replace the lifters...

 

Thank you for input.
I saw your link and although link is for a TWIN CAM and not an EVO the information is similar.
The 2303 lifter is documented as an OEM Stock Leakdown and that is what i have installed.
Unless manufacturer documentation is incorrect.
Some other versions for EVO motors are "S", "R" and a "+2" but those are for other applications.
The "S" version would be the slow leak down version for the EVO motor.
Visually the stock lifters removed look very similar or the same to my eyes other than a slight color shade difference but then again mine are from 1998.
The stock lifters actually liked in very good condition.
I have not had a chance to address pushrod adjustment but i will get back with a report when completed.
It would seem like i have them adjusted towards loose side per calculations and instructions.
Thank you for input.

 

Further follow-up.
I had a delay due to flat rear tire that i documented in another thread under slime in tubed tire.

The S & S adjustable pushrods were removed, reinstalled and adjusted per factory instructions of 4 FULL turns.
The motor does NOT make the ticky ticky ticky noise any more.

It did require an adjustment of cold idle screw and hot idle screw as both idles were way too low both during warm-up and while riding.
The nut for lever at throttle body was found to be very very loose and it looked like the only thing holding it was the little lock tab for nut on that lever at throttle body.
Nut was more than 1/2 way off and basically dangling.
The nut is part of part number 27274-95 or 27272-95

I lifted tab that was barely holding nut, removed nut and put some blue thread locker on it to re-install.
Then adjust tab to insure nut could not spin off.
The loose nut probably added some play to throttle body lever.

Tightening of nut, new Barnett throttle and idle cables that i recently replaced make the throttle response very smooth.

The new clutch cable from Barnett made clutch pull very easy.
The new clutch cable has a liner that factory cable did not have.

I put about 60 miles on the set-up and it runs very well.
Very good get up and go from idle to end of 4th gear with new EV13 cam.

I have owned this bike since new and it feels like a different motor with the cam change.

I will monitor fuel consumption.

 

Glad to hear your putting on miles and smiles..
Ride safe...