So I've decided to swap an Andrews EV27 into my 99 FXR2 this winter. I spoke to the local Indy who has done some work for me in the past. He quoted me "around $700" for the job, plus new lifters if I wanted them. Well, I don't know if that is a fair price or not, but I do know it's more than I want to spend, So I'm thinking about tackling it myself.

The last time I did a cam on an Evo was in 1991 and that was with the help of an experienced HD mechanic coaching me along. When we did it that time I remember we pulled the rocker boxes and reused the stock pushrods. Don't know if that is the smart route or not.

Now I've already read the article on Night Rider and have a factory manual for my bike. But I still have some questions.

What do you think about going the route of reusing the stock pushrods. Andrews says it's acceptable with this cam as the base circles are the same diameter as stock.

Do I need any special tools. Like something to remove the cam bearing.

The bike only has 9800 miles on it. Do I need to pop the $200 for new lifters.

I'm looking for a little advice and encouragement on this project as I haven't torn into the inside of an HD motor in a long time. I'm a fair shadetree mechanic, but something new always scares me a little before I start diggin in.

 

Well, "they say" that a rented/borrowed tool from the local auto parts stores will get that inner bearing out, but "the right" tool makes it go a lot easier. I think Jim's makes "the right" tool. I would do that inner bearing just 'cause you're in there and that's a grenade waiting to go off. I think spending the extra money on adjustable pushrods is worth it to not have to pull the top of the motor off, but if your on a super tight budget, I could see using the old ones if the cam maker says the base circle is the same.

As for the lifters, you have the later style already. My original early style ones lasted about 60K. I would just keep running what you have. It is usually a good idea to swap lifters with a new cam so they "run in" together, but if money's tight, I think 10K on later style lifters would be acceptable to keep running.

Otherwise, you need a feeler guage to measure for the cam shim, timing light to set the timing, but I think that's about it.

 

Thanks Doc. I was planning on doing the inner bearing. I think they are only about $8. I'll borrow or rent a tool to get the old one out.
I think I may go the route of EZ install pushrods. I just had new rocker box gaskets done last year due to a front cylinder leak, so the time to take them apart and the cost of the new gasket set may make the pushrods more appealing.
Still looking for more feedback.

 

You can do it! It isn't difficult.

I got a cam bearing puller tool and installer tool from georges-garage.com. They make quality stuff and they are less $$$ than JIMS. It is super-easy to pull the old bearing and install the new one with the proper tool. It took me as long to assemble the tools as it did to do the job! Use assembly lube on the new bearing, and on the cam where it goes into the bearing and into the outer bushing. Will not hurt to squirt it on the cam lobes as well. Motor oil will work too, but assembly lube is stickier and will stay in place without dripping off.

You will also need a cam shim for an aftermarket cam (stock H-D cams stopped using cam shims a long time ago). .055" is the "standard" thickness, but they come in thicknesses from .050" on up, in .005" increments. You'll need to measure the length of your old and new cams up to the "neck" where the cam shim goes on to determine the shim thickness you'll need. I used the standard .055" shim and it was perfect. The cam end play after it's installed and the cover is torqued down should be in the range .001" to .016", with a little loose being better than tight. .008" to .010" is about right. The thickness of the cam cover gasket will affect the installed cam end play, so torque it down to spec and no more.

And I'd also recommend the adjustable pushrods if you can afford $100 or so for them. You don't want to spend another hour or more to remove the upper rocker box covers, and then have to get the gaskets back in place and torque them down properly if you can afford not to have to do so. I also hate to take the fuel tank off if I can avoid it. I installed a V-Thunder EVL03010 cam in Bertha last winter, along with the the T-138 Torrington bearing and adjustable chromoly rods, which are stiffer than aluminum rods. "They say" that chromoly rods are louder, but I haven't noticed any additional noise from them. Of course, I don't hear much over Bertha's open fishtails anyway!

If you get H-D adjustable rods, make sure they are the "EZ Install" type. Some H-D adjustable rods will not go into place with the rocker boxes still on. Most other brands of adjustable rods will fit with the rocker boxes on. Use a new cam cover gasket, too, and new pushrod O-rings. Follow the pushrod instructions precisely with regard to the number of wrench flats you need past zero lash, and allow a good 20-30 minutes for the lifters to bleed down before turning the engine to install the rods on the other cylinder. You should be able to turn the adjusted rods with your fingers when the lifters have bled down enough. Let the lifters on the second cylinder bleed down until you can turn them with your fingers too, before turning the engine over.

I agree with Doc about keeping your current lifters. They likely will not be significantly worn at only 10K. Check the rollers on them to make sure they are still flat and not grooved from wear. Worn or grooved lifter rollers will be harder on the cam lobes, and will wear them more quickly.

The whole job from beginning to end took me about 4 hours, but I was going nice and slow and triple checking everything as I went. I could do it again in probably half that time. It takes as more time to take off and replace everything you need to get into the cam chest than it does to actually install the new cam.

Nightrider.com offers excellent illustrated Evo cam installation instructions.

Good luck!