Tools needed to replace spring-loaded cam chain tensioners (06-down style)
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 809
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From: Honduras, Central America
Tools needed to replace spring-loaded cam chain tensioners (06-down style)
I'm putting in new spring loaded tensioners for temporary peace of mind, I'm planning to do the conversion to hydraulic tensioners in about a year or so, when I've saved up enough dough for other engine maintenance issues that are better done in one fell swoop...
Anyhow, What special tools will I need to replace the standard spring loaded tensioners? I'm guessing...
1. CAMSHAFT PULLER [from WHOYA]
- to remove the cams and cam chains
2. TENSION UNLOADER [from JIMS]
- to properly remove the spring loaded tensioners and install their replacements
3. SNAP RING REMOVERS
- for the snap rings that hold the tensioners in place. Accoring the Clymer manual I bought, I will also need new ones for the new tensioners.
Will I need any other special tools? (like oil pump guide bolts or something?) I live overseas and if I can't find the tools locally I'll have to wait a whole month to get them online.
Also, since I don't want to buy adjustable pushrods I'll have to remove the rocker boxes am I right? (I'm saving as much as I can since I also have to buy front end components to rebuild my bike) every video on Youtube has guys cutting the pushrods to save time...I'd rather take the long route and save $130...
Your help is deeply appreciated. Thank you!
Anyhow, What special tools will I need to replace the standard spring loaded tensioners? I'm guessing...
1. CAMSHAFT PULLER [from WHOYA]
- to remove the cams and cam chains
2. TENSION UNLOADER [from JIMS]
- to properly remove the spring loaded tensioners and install their replacements
3. SNAP RING REMOVERS
- for the snap rings that hold the tensioners in place. Accoring the Clymer manual I bought, I will also need new ones for the new tensioners.
Will I need any other special tools? (like oil pump guide bolts or something?) I live overseas and if I can't find the tools locally I'll have to wait a whole month to get them online.
Also, since I don't want to buy adjustable pushrods I'll have to remove the rocker boxes am I right? (I'm saving as much as I can since I also have to buy front end components to rebuild my bike) every video on Youtube has guys cutting the pushrods to save time...I'd rather take the long route and save $130...
Your help is deeply appreciated. Thank you!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
You don't need the first 2 if you are changing the bearings at the same time...more on that later.
To unload the tensioners you just need a large socket with just over a third of the side ground out, lock them with a small scredriver.
Now, bearings. If you have a bike that doesn't have the roller bearing on the rear camshaft (there are stil a few about) you need to convert to the upgrade. If you do have the roller on the rear the cam just falls out as it has the inner race on it so no tool needed. The front cam has the ball bearing and I always replace these so just heat up the bearing (after first removing the cam bearing retaining plate) around the inner race and use a fat bolt with a blunt point ground on the end and tap the cam out.
To replace the cam you just heat up the inner race on the new bearing (once it is installed in the cam block) heat it real hot, and avoid getting heat on the tensioner pad. The cam will slip right in if you're quick. If it hangs up you sit the bearing in a socket that supports the inner race and tap the cam in with the fat bolt.
There, I just saved you a heap of cash!
To unload the tensioners you just need a large socket with just over a third of the side ground out, lock them with a small scredriver.
Now, bearings. If you have a bike that doesn't have the roller bearing on the rear camshaft (there are stil a few about) you need to convert to the upgrade. If you do have the roller on the rear the cam just falls out as it has the inner race on it so no tool needed. The front cam has the ball bearing and I always replace these so just heat up the bearing (after first removing the cam bearing retaining plate) around the inner race and use a fat bolt with a blunt point ground on the end and tap the cam out.
To replace the cam you just heat up the inner race on the new bearing (once it is installed in the cam block) heat it real hot, and avoid getting heat on the tensioner pad. The cam will slip right in if you're quick. If it hangs up you sit the bearing in a socket that supports the inner race and tap the cam in with the fat bolt.
There, I just saved you a heap of cash!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
You don't need the oil pump guides if you keep the motor turning while you tighten the pump bolts but for the sake of a few bucks I use the alignment tool but the other way works just as well.
You shouldn't reuse the rocker box gaskets but if you just want to buy only one gasket then undo the two rocker retaining bolts on the right hand side of the bike and slip the rocker shafts out. Before replacing the lifters on reassembly you flick out the clips in the top of each lifter and pour the oil out....reassemble each lifter and this deflates them so you can put the pushrods in , drop in the rockers and slide in the shafts.
Bike will rattle like a **** on start up (same as if they were brand new lifters) and then go quiet after a few hundred yards riding.
You now owe me a beer :-)
You shouldn't reuse the rocker box gaskets but if you just want to buy only one gasket then undo the two rocker retaining bolts on the right hand side of the bike and slip the rocker shafts out. Before replacing the lifters on reassembly you flick out the clips in the top of each lifter and pour the oil out....reassemble each lifter and this deflates them so you can put the pushrods in , drop in the rockers and slide in the shafts.
Bike will rattle like a **** on start up (same as if they were brand new lifters) and then go quiet after a few hundred yards riding.
You now owe me a beer :-)
Last edited by Spanners39; May 1, 2013 at 05:06 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 809
Likes: 3
From: Honduras, Central America
You're awesome man. Thanks! I'll make a printable version of this to guide me through the process. You make it sound easy, but I'm sure I'll find it quite challenging.
The only dealer this country has won't service imported H-D's so it's pretty much DIY-territory down here! This forum has been an amazing source of bike knowledge I never thought I'd have, thanks to people like you.
So, want that beer UPS of FEDEX? Gotta warn ya though, it might be a little warm by the time it gets there! (and it's 5AM here by the way, I've been up all night watching J&P Cycle videos on Cam replacement and such so get it all right)
The only dealer this country has won't service imported H-D's so it's pretty much DIY-territory down here! This forum has been an amazing source of bike knowledge I never thought I'd have, thanks to people like you.
So, want that beer UPS of FEDEX? Gotta warn ya though, it might be a little warm by the time it gets there! (and it's 5AM here by the way, I've been up all night watching J&P Cycle videos on Cam replacement and such so get it all right)
Last edited by FXD_noob; May 1, 2013 at 06:06 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,733
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From: Snow Hill, NC
I think there is another video on the site that sells CYCO tensioner replacement pads...Some people make it sound a lot more complicated than it is actually .....You can improvise on tools....
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
You're awesome man. Thanks! I'll make a printable version of this to guide me through the process. You make it sound easy, but I'm sure I'll find it quite challenging.
The only dealer this country has won't service imported H-D's so it's pretty much DIY-territory down here! This forum has been an amazing source of bike knowledge I never thought I'd have, thanks to people like you.
So, want that beer UPS of FEDEX? Gotta warn ya though, it might be a little warm by the time it gets there! (and it's 5AM here by the way, I've been up all night watching J&P Cycle videos on Cam replacement and such so get it all right)
The only dealer this country has won't service imported H-D's so it's pretty much DIY-territory down here! This forum has been an amazing source of bike knowledge I never thought I'd have, thanks to people like you.
So, want that beer UPS of FEDEX? Gotta warn ya though, it might be a little warm by the time it gets there! (and it's 5AM here by the way, I've been up all night watching J&P Cycle videos on Cam replacement and such so get it all right)
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Honduras, Central America
Originally Posted by QC
To just remove the tensioners, a pliers and an Allen wrench or drill bit small enough to fit in the locking hole will work.
Definitely agree on the improvisation part... I guess some "Harley recommended" tools are just overkill. Also, I don't wanna spend money on tools that are unique to my year and model...why does H-D do that by the way? To force the buyer to depend solely on the dealership for service and repair whenever newer bikes are purchased?
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Definitely agree on the improvisation part... I guess some "Harley recommended" tools are just overkill. Also, I don't wanna spend money on tools that are unique to my year and model...why does H-D do that by the way? To force the buyer to depend solely on the dealership for service and repair whenever newer bikes are purchased?
Usually the tools speed up the process in the workshop so they can charge you for X hours but do it in X-1 hours. The tools also give uniformity of outcome so that whoever does the job it comes out the same.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 809
Likes: 3
From: Honduras, Central America
So what if I got the hang of it, and started changing other people's tensioners? Or changing other people's pushrods and cams? That would justify having to buy the tools then...right?