1995 FXD International. Ignition module replacement or substitute
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Joined: Jan 2017
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From: New Zealand
1995 FXD International. Ignition module replacement or substitute
Greetings folks.
I am attempting to "future-proof" my lovely bike to a degree by getting some parts in stock that are gradually becoming obsolete.
I am hoping one of you good folk would give me the lowdown on what you used as an aftermarket for this. Ive no probs with the sender unit but there is considerable debate about inter-model compatibility.
I like this Evo, & at my age can say I want another 20 years from it as it came to me with 20K kms.
Im aware the international models have different timing to mainland models.
My best to all of you guys. David New Zealand
I am attempting to "future-proof" my lovely bike to a degree by getting some parts in stock that are gradually becoming obsolete.
I am hoping one of you good folk would give me the lowdown on what you used as an aftermarket for this. Ive no probs with the sender unit but there is considerable debate about inter-model compatibility.
I like this Evo, & at my age can say I want another 20 years from it as it came to me with 20K kms.
Im aware the international models have different timing to mainland models.
My best to all of you guys. David New Zealand
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From: Bedford UK
Hi David, from the UK. I bought my 1990 FLHS new, as an International spec model. I spent my early ownership of it steadily learning what was different about it, especially compared with US spec models, then undoing it all! Now with my bike being an older spec than yours I can't be certain that my list below will relate to your bike, however here goes. Our International spec bikes had to be quieter than US specs, which affected more than seems logical:
- quieter silencers/mufflers,
- quieter airbox - looks similar to US spec but has added internal baffles,
- a 28mm restrictor in the 40mm inlet manifold,
- ignition module with retarded ignition advance curve,
- camshaft with less adventurous timing,
- gearing was higher than US, on my bike 32/61 compared with 32/70.
- The silencers are easily replaced, even better by a fresh 2-into-1 system.
- Replace the stock plastic airbox (if your bike still has it) with a SE or similar aftermarket air filter.
- Look through the carb, with the throttle open, to see if there is a baffle behind it in the manifold!
- As I made my mods many years ago, there are different ignition products available these days. If I was doing it today I would probably use a Dyna module, the one that fits inside the timing cone. Others will be along soon to confirm the preferred model.
- Swap the cam for an aftermarket one, such as Andrews EV13 or EV27. I was happy with my EV27, but would choose an EV13 today, although there are other options.
- Gearing has changed over the years, so check specs for your model and year. Changing the rear pulley also requires a new belt, so is actually a bit involved to do.
Last edited by grbrown; Nov 19, 2019 at 05:07 PM.
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From: New Zealand
Greetings Graham & many thanks for the reply. It covered a lot of what concerned me.
I'd seen your picture several times in response to inquiries here, people like yourself are assets to these sites.
I was able to tick off quite rapidly the obvious stuff : mufflers, big old plastic airbox. I was lucky with both of these as 2nd hand is ridiculously cheap down here in NZ as no-one wants to ride these venerable bikes as speed & power are preferred qualities. Not so much for myself now that I've been graced with longevity & want same in my stuff!
The one thing I want to ask you Graham is about the ignition module. Are you saying that I can replace the present one that lives under the left hand side cover under my seat, & get a unitized sender & module? Please excuse all ignorance as I can hear the laughter from here but this is my first Harley & Id love it to be my last.
Further to this Christmas wish, is there anything else apart from inner primaries that is worth picking up if it comes along as a "common fail"?
Gratefully yours, hope you get some dry days this winter.....Dave
I'd seen your picture several times in response to inquiries here, people like yourself are assets to these sites.
I was able to tick off quite rapidly the obvious stuff : mufflers, big old plastic airbox. I was lucky with both of these as 2nd hand is ridiculously cheap down here in NZ as no-one wants to ride these venerable bikes as speed & power are preferred qualities. Not so much for myself now that I've been graced with longevity & want same in my stuff!
The one thing I want to ask you Graham is about the ignition module. Are you saying that I can replace the present one that lives under the left hand side cover under my seat, & get a unitized sender & module? Please excuse all ignorance as I can hear the laughter from here but this is my first Harley & Id love it to be my last.
Further to this Christmas wish, is there anything else apart from inner primaries that is worth picking up if it comes along as a "common fail"?
Gratefully yours, hope you get some dry days this winter.....Dave
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Brighton, MI
Dynatek 2000i or the ultima 53-644.
Both units are designed to be installed in the nose cone (cam cover). The module under the chrome cover on the left side of the bike is completely removed when using the above mentioned ignition modules/pick ups.
The modules look the same, but the advance curves are different. In my opinion, the dynatek 2000i module has the better curves. The ultima curves are more aggressive. The more you build the engine, the more prone to ping, so the ultima while it is less expensive, may not be the best choice.
However, both modules can be programmed using the same software, same cable, and custom advance curves can be loaded in to fit your particular need.
http://www.dynaonline.com/products/h.../dyna-2ki.aspx
https://www.wwag.com/step/pdf/123271.pdf
http://www.ultimaproducts.com/53-644_Ignition.pdf
Probably the first thing I would do is as grbrown suggests, get rid of the restrictor, free flowing air cleaner, and replace the mufflers. Be ready to rejet the carb after those changes. Then step back and see how you like things. If you still want more, then go with the cam as the previous modifications for breathing have set you up nicely for an aftermarket cam.
Is your bike the fxd or fxds model? Thanks for the compliment, the bike is blushing...YD
Both units are designed to be installed in the nose cone (cam cover). The module under the chrome cover on the left side of the bike is completely removed when using the above mentioned ignition modules/pick ups.
The modules look the same, but the advance curves are different. In my opinion, the dynatek 2000i module has the better curves. The ultima curves are more aggressive. The more you build the engine, the more prone to ping, so the ultima while it is less expensive, may not be the best choice.
However, both modules can be programmed using the same software, same cable, and custom advance curves can be loaded in to fit your particular need.
http://www.dynaonline.com/products/h.../dyna-2ki.aspx
https://www.wwag.com/step/pdf/123271.pdf
http://www.ultimaproducts.com/53-644_Ignition.pdf
Probably the first thing I would do is as grbrown suggests, get rid of the restrictor, free flowing air cleaner, and replace the mufflers. Be ready to rejet the carb after those changes. Then step back and see how you like things. If you still want more, then go with the cam as the previous modifications for breathing have set you up nicely for an aftermarket cam.
Is your bike the fxd or fxds model? Thanks for the compliment, the bike is blushing...YD
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From: Bedford UK
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I put an Ultima in mine n if I could have a do over I'd install a Daytona twin tech or the 2000i
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Joined: May 2008
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From: South Carolina
But there is no reason to replace the ignition just to prevent a failure, the original ignition module is still working on my `89 Sortail, over 140K miles so far.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Nov 21, 2019 at 09:00 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 63
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From: New Zealand
I totally agree with you. Now I know that there are options regards electrics for me, I can sit a bit easier. Another reason I placed my post was a local bike shop is having a clearout of 70's-90's parts. Not so much cause for action in the States but down here where postage is very expensive & these bikes are rarer as wrecks, I thought to ask about common fails so as to be prepared.
As said above, these bikes are made to be ridden & can be owned for a longtime your 140k is a good example of this.
Thank you to all who responded...Dave, New Zealand