Ignition Switch Wiring
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Adirondacks
Ignition Switch Wiring
I'm replacing the instrument console of my 90 FLHS with a Road King Nacelle and instrument console. The ignition switch on my FLHS is 4 wire: red-battery, green-lights, white-ignition, orange-accesories. I just ordered a Road King innition switch from J&P and it's 3 wire. I'm sure one is red-battery, anyone know what the other two are? I don't have a Road King wiring diagram handy but can get one. The only switch position I ever used on my FLHS was ignition and lights on. I'm sure I can wire up the Road King switch to provide that.
Thanks.
Frank
Thanks.
Frank
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Cental, MI
On is with accessory [orange] in many applications.. switch can handle it, and the Breakers are separate so.. all good!!
But... Make sure the Lights position is also "ON" as I cannot ring out your switch from here..
But... Make sure the Lights position is also "ON" as I cannot ring out your switch from here..
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Adirondacks
Graham.
I can see from my FSM what the wires do on my switch which has four electrical connectors and mentioned that in my initial post. It gets complicated when I install a Road King ignition switch which only has 3 electrical connectors. I'm obviously going to have to either combine two or eliminate one of the original wires to the switch. It was getting late when I made the post and quit last night and I was getting sick of trying to trace the wiring schematic as it's pretty "compact". Here's a general question for a fellow FLHS owner: our bikes have no accessories to my way of thinking other than maybe turning on some lights without a hot ignition. No radios, alarms, sensors, heaters, do-dads, etc., etc. I can see no real use for the accessories switch position (or wire) and have never used it in the riding I've done with that bike. I'm eliminating the front and rear fender lights in favor of the Road King fender tips so they'll no longer require electrons. Am I missing something?
Thanks.
Frank
I can see from my FSM what the wires do on my switch which has four electrical connectors and mentioned that in my initial post. It gets complicated when I install a Road King ignition switch which only has 3 electrical connectors. I'm obviously going to have to either combine two or eliminate one of the original wires to the switch. It was getting late when I made the post and quit last night and I was getting sick of trying to trace the wiring schematic as it's pretty "compact". Here's a general question for a fellow FLHS owner: our bikes have no accessories to my way of thinking other than maybe turning on some lights without a hot ignition. No radios, alarms, sensors, heaters, do-dads, etc., etc. I can see no real use for the accessories switch position (or wire) and have never used it in the riding I've done with that bike. I'm eliminating the front and rear fender lights in favor of the Road King fender tips so they'll no longer require electrons. Am I missing something?
Thanks.
Frank
Last edited by fshaw; Feb 27, 2020 at 03:02 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
The original switch had 4 leads - battery, ignition, lights, accessory. If it has not been removed, there was originally a jumper between the breakers for ignition and lights, at the breakers. The accessory has it's own breaker. The accessory (output lead) would have had power in any position other than fork lock or off.
New switch would have - battery lead, accessory (which will be "hot" in any position other than off) and the other lead will connect to either the lights or ignition breaker and it will work, if the "jumper" has not been removed. Otherwise it will have to be replaced for the new switch to work.
New switch would have - battery lead, accessory (which will be "hot" in any position other than off) and the other lead will connect to either the lights or ignition breaker and it will work, if the "jumper" has not been removed. Otherwise it will have to be replaced for the new switch to work.
Last edited by t150vej; Feb 27, 2020 at 03:28 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: South Carolina
You only need one wire for ignition and lights, but since this wire will now feed two 15 amp breakers, you should use at least 14 awg wire, so make up a new length wire for this.
Disconnect the old ign and lights wires at the breaker and just leave them in the harness.
Make a short jumper wire, and connect the copper stud of the ignition breaker to the copper stud of the lights breaker.
Connect the wire from the accessory breaker to the new switch (you may have to read out your switch to find out which terminal is accessory, I don`t remember if it is marked).
Connect the wire from the main breaker to the new switch (center terminal, I think).
Connect one end of the new 14 gauge wire to the switch (ignition terminal), and the other end to the copper stud of either the ignition or lights breaker.
Now when you turn on your switch to the accessory position, it will work just like it did with the original switch, and when you turn it to the ignition position everything will be powered, just as before.
Now you have adapted a new switch into an old harness, without cutting a single wire.
Disconnect the old ign and lights wires at the breaker and just leave them in the harness.
Make a short jumper wire, and connect the copper stud of the ignition breaker to the copper stud of the lights breaker.
Connect the wire from the accessory breaker to the new switch (you may have to read out your switch to find out which terminal is accessory, I don`t remember if it is marked).
Connect the wire from the main breaker to the new switch (center terminal, I think).
Connect one end of the new 14 gauge wire to the switch (ignition terminal), and the other end to the copper stud of either the ignition or lights breaker.
Now when you turn on your switch to the accessory position, it will work just like it did with the original switch, and when you turn it to the ignition position everything will be powered, just as before.
Now you have adapted a new switch into an old harness, without cutting a single wire.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Feb 27, 2020 at 04:46 PM.
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From: Beyond Fucital
Being the lights have to be on when its running and you really never use the ACC by itself connect ACC and lights together.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: South Carolina
The connection method in post 6 will keep the bike working just as it came from the factory.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Feb 27, 2020 at 06:10 PM.
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