FLH Battery Relocation
#1
FLH Battery Relocation
I’ve read the threads and made my battery box to move my1990 FLHS battery under the seat. I was at my local indie shop and was discussing this with the owner who’s knowledge I respect, a lot. The maximum width I can get with my battery box and side oil tank is 6” which puts me into a Sportster battery if I stay with a conventional battery. The shop owner said he was convinced I’d go through starter drives due to the lower amp hour battery. Anyone who has done this conversion had starter drive problems post conversion? Of those who have done the conversion, anyone using a 6” wide battery with total satisfaction?
Thanks.
Frank
Thanks.
Frank
Last edited by fshaw; 04-14-2020 at 09:01 PM.
#2
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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I’ve read the threads and made my battery box to move my1990 FLHS battery under the seat. I was at my local indie shop and was discussing this with the owner who’s knowledge I respect, a lot. The maximum width I can get with my battery box and side oil tank is 6” which puts me into a Sportster battery if I stay with a conventional battery. The shop owner said he was convinced I’d go through starter drives due to the lower amp hour battery. Anyone who has done this conversion had starter drive problems post conversion? Of those who have done the conversion, anyone using a 6” wide battery with total satisfaction?
Thanks.
Frank
Thanks.
Frank
#3
#4
When I did mine, I made the decision to go with one of the new lithium batteries.
Part of the motivation for that was that I did some engine work at the same time, and bumped the compression a bit. I was worried that a conventional battery small enough to fit just wouldn't get it done.
That's about all I can say about that. The lithium battery has worked fine for a season. Don't know if I could say the same about a conventional battery or not.
As to the stuff about starter drives, I'm having trouble visualizing how that's an issue. But I'm not much for thinking through electrical stuff. What's the theory here?
I'm really pleased with how that project turned out. Mostly because the one-touch bags I installed are so much nicer than the stockers.
Part of the motivation for that was that I did some engine work at the same time, and bumped the compression a bit. I was worried that a conventional battery small enough to fit just wouldn't get it done.
That's about all I can say about that. The lithium battery has worked fine for a season. Don't know if I could say the same about a conventional battery or not.
As to the stuff about starter drives, I'm having trouble visualizing how that's an issue. But I'm not much for thinking through electrical stuff. What's the theory here?
I'm really pleased with how that project turned out. Mostly because the one-touch bags I installed are so much nicer than the stockers.
#7
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#8
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 21,005
Likes: 0
Received 4,338 Likes
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1,948 Posts
I’ve read the threads and made my battery box to move my1990 FLHS battery under the seat. I was at my local indie shop and was discussing this with the owner who’s knowledge I respect, a lot. The maximum width I can get with my battery box and side oil tank is 6” which puts me into a Sportster battery if I stay with a conventional battery. The shop owner said he was convinced I’d go through starter drives due to the lower amp hour battery. Anyone who has done this conversion had starter drive problems post conversion? Of those who have done the conversion, anyone using a 6” wide battery with total satisfaction?
Thanks.
Frank
Thanks.
Frank
I would be concerned about the battery heating up from all the extra load put on it from the many extra electrical components your bagger has on it compared to a sportster.
#9
Original spec 1990 Glide battery is 20/22Ah. Current replacement 1990 Sporty spec, AGM type, 20Ah, if brand is chosen wisely. No probs! Lithium ones are much beefier still.
#10
A 260 amp battery was original equipment from the factory, so that's what it needs at minimum. Low starting amperage won't necessarily hurt the starter gear, but low cranking amps is murder on the field coils in the actual starter motor.
The lithium 0maha mentioned is about 450 CCA. So if you don't want to do the big bucks for a battery, stay above 260 CCA and you should be good.
The lithium 0maha mentioned is about 450 CCA. So if you don't want to do the big bucks for a battery, stay above 260 CCA and you should be good.