Adjust your tire pressures for sure.

If the engine to mounting plate bolts and front mount thru bolt checks out, try this;

Sitting on the bike straight up, jerk the handle bars rapidly about 4" right to left a few times then stop abruptly. If it feels like the seat/ rear end still wiggles a time or 2 as you stop jerking, probably the isolators / swing arm bushings . Or get someone to follow you while you ride, changing lanes and crossing pavement seams. If the swing arm is loose, it'll show up easily to anyone who has a clue about a bike.

 

Definitely check the neck bearings. Jack up the front tire, and holding the bottom of the sliders, pull towards you. Any slack, the neck bearings are toast. Good luck.

 

Will do.

 

It dose feel like it is in the seat or more Aft. than Fwd.

 

.......... because it's "the tail wagging the dog".

 

Yes I posted a fix for you in a post about waging rear end, search that term, and I posted a video linked to you tube, watch that it will walk you through the repair, easy fix. adjust the entire power train with the front engine turn buckle.to align rear tire, swing arm and engine and transmission to the front tire.

 

I couldn't find a thread that deluxerider mentioned. Maybe he will post a link...

It really is near impossible to check a swing arm for play on a jack even with 2 people unless it's really, really bad. Certainly a proper alignment won't hurt, but at 26 years old I suspect you have other issues. (which are common to rubber mount Touring and Fxr models)

So, you have basically 2 options;

(1) pull the swing arm and do it all - new bushings or bearing upgrade and new OEM isolator mounts.

(2) replace the isolator mounts and see how it does. It's only about a 1.5 hour job if you take your time. (and that takes care of it more often than not, but no guarantee)

If you go with option 2, I can walk you thru it in text quicker than it took to write all this - not at all complicated. Option 1, that's a good bit more involved but again, not complicated, just a lot more work.

Depending on how you're set for tools and such and unless you're ready for a big project, I'd go with option 2. You'll need new isolators either way and would only be out a couple hours if you end up doing it all the way later.

What too many people don't stop to realize - there are 4 bolts that hold the isolator mounts to the bike. Other than that, besides the one bolt thru the front engine mount, there's only one bolt that supports the the engine and transmission to the frame and keeps the rear wheel/swing arm connected to the rest of the bike - the pivot shaft that is thru the isolator mounts.

So it doesn't take much wear/weakness there to make one do all kinds of crazy steering among other things... always use Genuine HD isolators. Aftermarket may be better than they used to be, but not worth the chance, to me anyway.

Don't kill the messenger but I'm fairly certain that's what you're looking at for the fix.

 

I couldn't move my swingarm by hand and the cleve blocks fell apart while removing them. It wasn't stable and didn't want to turn left, the isolators were trash also.

 

I did watch the vid. and am going to try that first. I also replaced the front motor mount with the new HD one. It is a much improved mount. We will see. The head bearings have no play. Thank you all for the help. I am so glad I have Evos.

 

Thanks for joining us! And do drop those tyre pressures please, I'm having sleepless nights....