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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 05:35 PM
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Just finished truing 1991 evo flywheels they are in reasonably good specs .001 on crank .003 on pinion race i installed them in a brand new s&s case with races allready installed bolted my the case together installed my pinion gear assembly to correct tourqe speces took a final runout reading at pinion shaft and my runout is reading about .007 cant understand why,so i removed flywheels took reading again my flywheels are solid same origanl readings....any ideas why after assembly im showing high runout reading?
 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 05:36 PM
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Welcome!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 05:44 PM
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Thank you
 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 05:46 PM
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Default Evo engine build

Ok im getting the hang of it now...wish i could say the same for my flywheels
 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 06:09 PM
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Okay the max run out you're supposed to have on your wheels when on the truing stand should only be .002" And those readings are supposed to be taken up on the two shafts as close to the wheels as possible. So if it's .002" out up close to the wheels it might be exaggerated out toward the end of your pinion shaft... But even that reading is only supposed to be a max of .0045". So it's possible your opinion shaft might not be properly torqued into the wheel or it's bent..
 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 06:31 PM
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Default Evo engine build

Thank you hotrodfatboy for your reply very good suggestions, the only thig is the pinion shaft of this year is not a scew in type of earlier years h.d changed over to the cast type in the late eighties or so so the flywheel is a one pice cast unit with the pinion and crank shaft...it still does not explain why my reading is higher with flywheels mounted in case and lower on truing stand...it leads me to belive there is a possibility of bearing not beig correct


Any other insight would be greatly appreciated
 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 06:43 PM
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Problem is - '91 wheels are 3-piece, so whatever the pinion shaft is out in relation to the wheel, cannot be corrected. Same goes for the sprocket shaft side.

Be patient and don't be afraid to take them apart at the crankpin again. Check each wheel individually and see how far they are off. Impossible to get a "smooth reading" checking each that way, just do the best you can. Then go back to it with those numbers in mind, which will give you a better idea of how close you might be able to get them when it's all together.

You probably don't want to do that and I totally understand. If that's the case, go back and work on them some more measuring where Hotrod mentioned. Do your best to get them within .001 or less. It takes patience and is intimidating as well as frustrating, believe I know! Just remember - if the "high spots" are in different places, they are out of "clock." Don't try to get a good true until the high spots are identical on both wheels. Don't be afraid to walk away from them and try it again later or on another day. You're not "on someone else's clock" trying to make a living with it, so getting them as near perfect as possible will be well worth your time, trust me.

After you've done it dozens of times... it's still frustrating and intimidating

Welcome to the forum!


 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 06:44 PM
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Default Evo engine build

Also i did measure my runout close to wheels,the whole lenghth of the pinion race,and the very end of pinion shaft ,(the end that sits in cam bushing the readings are all low) so yes i canunderstand the readig in case being exaggerated



 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 06:54 PM
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Thank you T150ve you understad me completely as im trying my best, its a dying skill that not many under stand lukily i am very patient and i can walk away to regroup even though i dont want to split them again i will try again thank you for the insight much respect to all....
 
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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 06:57 PM
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If high spots are in different spots they are out of clock ...ok got it
 
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