FXR problems...
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
FXR problems...
I'm having some trouble with my bike. It's a 94. I'm trying to figure out why it vibrates so much. It feels like it's solid mounted. My engine/trans does not move in the frame at all at idle. That seems wrong to me. It's somehow bound up, and I can't find how. My front and top links are new HD parts. I replaced the cleveblocks with bearings. I recently replaced my front mount and rear isolators with HD parts. That lifted my drive train to the point that the Mikuni I've had in it for 15000 miles doesn't fit anymore. I don't see anything touching anything else. The only thing I can think of is my top link must be out of whack and not allowing the drivetrain to shake in the mounts.
Is there a way to adjust the top stabilizer link without removing it from the frame? I need someone to explain to me like I'm a child how to adjust this damned thing. I've been doing this by the manual, but I must not be smart enough to understand it. I can't get the bike to stop shaking.
What I've done in the past -
Lift the bike.
Put a floor jack under the left side peg and lift up to level the bike vertically with a bubble level going across the frame.
I remove the bolt on the left side (engine mount) of the top link.
With a bubble level on the rear rotor, my drive train naturally sits in good vertical alignment.
I adjust the link so the bolt falls back in with no resistance.
Tighten everything back up.
Is there a way to adjust the top stabilizer link without removing it from the frame? I need someone to explain to me like I'm a child how to adjust this damned thing. I've been doing this by the manual, but I must not be smart enough to understand it. I can't get the bike to stop shaking.
What I've done in the past -
Lift the bike.
Put a floor jack under the left side peg and lift up to level the bike vertically with a bubble level going across the frame.
I remove the bolt on the left side (engine mount) of the top link.
With a bubble level on the rear rotor, my drive train naturally sits in good vertical alignment.
I adjust the link so the bolt falls back in with no resistance.
Tighten everything back up.
In fact, I'd go one further: Disconnect both the top and the front heim joint mounts. Pull the nut off the front motor mount bolt and leave the bolt loose.
Fire her up and see what's what.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,315
Likes: 1,663
From: Tampa
What originally sent you down this road of investigation? Has it been vibey since you bought it? Or did you do something to initiate it a few thousand miles ago?
That Mikuni not fitting is the first indication something isn't correct. I've got the Mik and it fits like a glove.
That Mikuni not fitting is the first indication something isn't correct. I've got the Mik and it fits like a glove.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
It was fine until I ****ed with it. I had a base gasket leak and noticed my front mount was shot. Its been a problem ever since I replaced it, but its far worse now.
i replaced the front mount with a Harley part (and later buell) and it lifted the front of the engine up. I replaced the swingarm pivot and cleve blocks later on with an aftermarket kit. It shook at 3k but was ok elsewhere. It broke my exhaust several times though. I later replaced the Cleve blocks with bearings and new Harley isolators. That lifted the rear of the drivetrain to the point my carb wont even fit. I replaced the front and top stabilizer links with Harley parts and no change. I had to put my old cv back on for the time being just to get it running, but its in need of a tune. not much point to that, though, because its unridable as it is now.
i replaced the front mount with a Harley part (and later buell) and it lifted the front of the engine up. I replaced the swingarm pivot and cleve blocks later on with an aftermarket kit. It shook at 3k but was ok elsewhere. It broke my exhaust several times though. I later replaced the Cleve blocks with bearings and new Harley isolators. That lifted the rear of the drivetrain to the point my carb wont even fit. I replaced the front and top stabilizer links with Harley parts and no change. I had to put my old cv back on for the time being just to get it running, but its in need of a tune. not much point to that, though, because its unridable as it is now.
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Here's a tip I picked up from Jake at GlidePro: Pull the tank. Disconnect the stabilizers. Pull the bolt out of the front mount. Take a ratchet strap and run it over the backbone of the frame, down under the motor. Crank down the strap until the motor is hanging. Jack up the bike so at least the rear wheel is off the ground. Then grab down by the bottom of the front jug and shake the motor side to side. The idea is to get the rear mounts to settle in to their "happy place".
Something of a long shot, but might be worth a shot.
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