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Thanks again Doc. I think it's my reg/rect. I follow this procedure to diagnose but it did not state to disconect from batt,..
"To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator. You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators. The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing."
I would call that suspicious, but I've never gone through that test before. My version I already told you, ammeter in series with the battery and look at the drain, disconnect the regulator wire at the breaker under the seat. If you're looking for a phantom current draw, that's the definitive test of the regulator.
You want the meter set up to read AMPS, not VOLTS. If it's drawing 2.4 AMPS, and when you disconnect the red regulator wire at the breaker and it drops to 0, that's your problem. If it is anything over a few thousandths of an amp (milliamps), I would replace it.
You want the meter set up to read AMPS, not VOLTS. If it's drawing 2.4 AMPS, and when you disconnect the red regulator wire at the breaker and it drops to 0, that's your problem. If it is anything over a few thousandths of an amp (milliamps), I would replace it.
I really appreciate your time on this Dr. I was having trouble with my amp readings but I'm ok now ....
There are 3 wires to the bottom stud of the breaker by the battery under the seat.
When connected individually:
1 10gu black from the regulator .05 amp draw
1 12gu red [seems to be radio] 3.4 amp draw
1 12gu black 4.5 amp draw
Question: Is the 33ac volts output from the stator enough?
If you were checking for voltage at the regulator on the input side, then you would not disconnect the source for the voltage (battery).
Originally Posted by 00 fxd
Using this procedure in saw 12v at one male pin terminal and 2v at the other
Using this method can be inconclusive if using a high impedance VOM (most are these days). You can read full voltage but without amperage, it's a non-event in this electronic circuit.
You really need a test light - an actual light, that can draw a small amount of amperage. If you don't have one, use a dash light bulb or similar and connect one end of a wire to ground, hold the other end to the base of the bulb. With regulator output connected to the battery or main breaker, touch the contact of the bulb to each pin of the regulator input, then both pins together. If it lights, bad regulator. Period.
I really appreciate your time on this Dr. I was having trouble with my amp readings but I'm ok now ....
There are 3 wires to the bottom stud of the breaker by the battery under the seat.
When connected individually:
1 10gu black from the regulator .05 amp draw
1 12gu red [seems to be radio] 3.4 amp draw
1 12gu black 4.5 amp draw
Question: Is the 33ac volts output from the stator enough?
Was typing when this posted. Was that with switch off or on?
Regulator draw looks OK. I don't know about a red wire down there. The black would be correct for ignition, gauges and lights. Again, only if the switch is on with those readings.
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