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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 03:01 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
On a stick motor I'm sure but would it last with twice the hp as stock?
my 124 made ~ 150/150 and still running an OEM harley comp and springpack. no issues so far, and I beat the bag out of that bike.

that being said, I did swap my comp for an earlier FXR variation (stock was 25T i believe, i needed a 24T because I went up a tooth on my clutch basket when I broke the 2nd OEM one in a row and went to an EvoIndustries billet basket....and stupidly ordered the 37T instead of the stock 36T)
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 03:10 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Jasper86
my 124 made ~ 150/150 and still running an OEM harley comp and springpack. no issues so far, and I beat the bag out of that bike.

that being said, I did swap my comp for an earlier FXR variation (stock was 25T i believe, i needed a 24T because I went up a tooth on my clutch basket when I broke the 2nd OEM one in a row and went to an EvoIndustries billet basket....and stupidly ordered the 37T instead of the stock 36T)
24 tooth is definitely better. I'm running the same but still running the 36 on the basket..
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 03:30 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
24 tooth is definitely better. I'm running the same but still running the 36 on the basket..
how'd you take up the slack in the primary chain? 24/36 is too loose on the stock adjuster (although Baker used to make a "FatShoe" to fix some of that), and a 25/37...the chain's too short to get the basket on the output shaft.

24T isn't necessarily "better", but will reduce final drive a few percent, and give you a perceived bump in torque/power (at the expense of some cruising RPM/top speed)
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 03:32 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Jasper86
how'd you take up the slack in the primary chain? 24/36 is too loose on the stock adjuster (although Baker used to make a "FatShoe" to fix some of that), and a 25/37...the chain's too short to get the basket on the output shaft.

24T isn't necessarily "better", but will reduce final drive a few percent, and give you a perceived bump in torque/power (at the expense of some cruising RPM/top speed)
Turn the adjuster shoe around so the back is the front.. works perfect..
 
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Old Jul 29, 2021 | 06:38 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Turn the adjuster shoe around so the back is the front.. works perfect..
I need to correct what I said.. You need to invert the entire adjuster.. The attached picture shows it all but it does help to turn the shoe around so the thicker part is in the front.. This way it allows more clearance from the chain to that rear stand center mount for the inspection plate on the outer primary cover you'll see what I'm talking about in the picture.. I've been running mine like this since I purchased the bike in 2004..



 
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