Buddy of mine bought a 1997 EFI Road King. He bought it cheap, because the previous owner couldn’t get it started.

I’ve checked the usual basics…..first

Motor turns, but it seems as if the timing was off. I took the ignition cup out….the notch is missing/worn out. I’ve reinstalled it where the notch would be….still no start.

Anyone else have the cup get screwed up?

 

I have zero experience on fuel infected bikes, but the cup was probably tightened down out of the cam notch which flattened the dimple. That's about the only way that can happen - they don't wear out. I'd replace it, especially since it's EFI and figure they are finicky. Injected bikes do use a different timing cup than carbed bikes.

Maybe some of the others with EFI experience can help you out on the rest of the no start issue.

 

So you already checked for compression and fuel, and now moved to spark. So, the spark is not happening at TDC? After the cup re-install, did you check the crank position sensor?

Just throwing out another item to check..cause I'm still in the carb era.

 

Did not check the crank position sensor….it’s got spark, fuel, compression. It’s just not sparking at the right time.

 

It’s a long shot, check timing marks under the nose cone.You never know what the p.o. may have done.

 

1997 road fuel injected.
I have a 1998.
Below is a cut and paste that may help you.
Note:
You have the correct cup in picture if bike is fuel injected BUT keep in mind that cam sensor is NOT timed.
The CAM sensor post/screws go into the 3 oclock and 9 oclock holes in the CAM sensor plate..

Common problems:1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $180 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .

The Goodridge lines are less than the Harley parts and are of good quality.

2-COMMON..speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. You can get a sub-harness wire assembly from J & P cycle catalog and then use a 1999 speedometer plug and play speedometer.

Easy changeover with no splicing of wires required. Old speedometer is a different manufacturer from the newer ones.

Note that mileage is stored in speedometer itself not in ECM.Some folks send old speedometer out to specialty shops in order to change-out the LCD.

3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.
Some people accidently nick/cut wire at oil filter and then bike develops problems.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…As an emergency by-pass just disconnect the idle control behind air filter when bike is off/at rest..You will need to hold throttle.

7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..
Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.

I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley.
Finally get the book read chapter on fuel injection.

I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.

Additional notes:

Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.

Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.

Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt.

The throttle PULL cable might eventually give-up the throttle cable end ball. My cable had a few strands broken off at the little ball inside throttle clamp. It eventually snapped while on a road trip. Required switching return for pull cable in a parking lot. I would review and consider changing Throttle, Brake and Clutch cable if they are original.

That bike era does not due well with rear swingarm lowering blocks. Check for and consider removal of rear lowering blocks if someone used them. They increase probability of rear swing arm crack since they alter shock angle. Blocks change shock position at bottom and that appears to stress swingarm in my opinion.

 

I would start with a new Mm efi timing cup and get that so you know that can be mounted correctly. Check the cam sensor to see that it is not "melting out". Look at the cam sensor backing plate IIRC, my mmefi has both slotted holes and 2 single holes.
On MM efi systems the 2 fixed single holes are the ones to use, slotted holes are strictly for carbed bikes. That puts the cam position sensor in exactly the correct position related to timing.

 

With the MM efi system, I don't think timing is adjustable. The slotted holes are used for timing adjustment on carbed bikes. If the 2 single mounting plate holes are not used, the motor will never start or run. It could be that easy. Report back after these steps are done. We can go on from there. These are the basic starting points on an unknown efi bike. Ken

 

Got it going, not great….but at least it runs again. The screws were not in the correct place letting the timing be off.

And the crank position sensor cable had a fray exposing wires. It somehow rubbed against the vibrating engine. It would work and then not work.

New cup and new CPS ordered…..

 

Thank you for returning.
It will help others when they run a "search".