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I need some feebdback on a custom build...

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Old Aug 13, 2021 | 09:47 PM
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Default I need some feebdback on a custom build...

I'm doing a ground up build on a '97 RK. The only thing HD left on the bike is the front fender, gas tank, side covers and rear bags...oh, and the primary. I put a S&S 124" motor with a Baker OD6 in it and here's my question. One guy at Baker told me that I needed to eliminate the compensating sprocket and go with a direct drive on this build b/c the motor would grenade the compensating sprocket. What are ya'll's thoughts???

I know a lot of old school guys got rid of them and they'll make the bike more responsive...and I really like the idea of it being faster off the line but can anyone here give me the pros and cons of keeping or eliminating the compensating sprocket??? I've read a lot of mixed reviews and I'm not sure what to think at this point. The plan had been to put an Evolution Industries direct drive sprocket on her and do away with it. Thoughts???

Thanks!
 

Last edited by AAAC; Aug 13, 2021 at 09:53 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2021 | 02:08 PM
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I think you would get more responses if you posted this question in the mechanical forum under primary/drivetrain.

Just sayin

Ride safe!
 
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Old Aug 18, 2021 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nutsandbolts5212
I think you would get more responses if you posted this question in the mechanical forum under primary/drivetrain.

Just sayin

Ride safe!

Appreciate the feedback...but I've already figured out what I'm going to do. To be honest, I didn't even think about it...but I will next time.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2021 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AAAC
Appreciate the feedback...but I've already figured out what I'm going to do. To be honest, I didn't even think about it...but I will next time.
What's the plan, as you indicated above ?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2021 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kel03
What's the plan, as you indicated above ?

I'm going with a solid sprocket/direct drive. I have a 25 tooth direct drive sprocket coming in from Evolution Industries. It's a direct swap out for the 25 tooth '97 compensating sprocket. My only questions at this point would be if there is anything to gain by going with a sprocket with less teeth to give that 124 a little more low end power??? I know a lot of guys run the 111's b/c they are faster off the line (light to light) but the 124's have them on the top end. I'm trying make up some of that...and really don't know if it would be beneficial to go with a lower geared sprocket or not??? I would probably get more usage out of 6th gear but I don't want to slow the bike down much on the top end either.

I'm also considering maybe putting in a different cam...but that will probably wait until the 2 year warranty is expired.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2021 | 04:12 PM
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I run the compensating sprocket setup on my 113" and 96" motors. 120/120ish on the 113" and no problems at all.
I'm not drag racing it, but it's not babied either.

Griz
 
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Old Aug 18, 2021 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by IBDAGRIZ
I run the compensating sprocket setup on my 113" and 96" motors. 120/120ish on the 113" and no problems at all.
I'm not drag racing it, but it's not babied either.

Griz
From what I'm seeing, I'll probably be in the 140-145 hp AND torque range. I think you can get away with the Baker DD6 on your set up, but it won't hold up to this motor. Once you get over that 120 mark, things start changing. I think the weakest link on this build is going to be the belt drive. I stuck with a belt instead of going to a chain but I may change that out later as well. Time will tell. Thanks for the feedback. I'm looking forward to what I can pick up off the line without the comp. in there. Most guys say it makes a significance difference...while eliminating the potential for failure. I reckon I'll find out.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2021 | 09:50 AM
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removing the compensator does help with responsiveness but it will remove the clutch's ability to "tame" the driveability at lower speeds. I run a BDL belt primary drive that obviously does away with the compensator on my 95 heritage based chop. It does have a tendency to buck a little bit at low rpm and wants to go. Its fine at higher speeds and very snappy response when you crack the throttle open but I do find the bike "lugs" more than it used to in higher gears at lower speeds
 
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Old Aug 19, 2021 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrsofty1340
removing the compensator does help with responsiveness but it will remove the clutch's ability to "tame" the driveability at lower speeds. I run a BDL belt primary drive that obviously does away with the compensator on my 95 heritage based chop. It does have a tendency to buck a little bit at low rpm and wants to go. Its fine at higher speeds and very snappy response when you crack the throttle open but I do find the bike "lugs" more than it used to in higher gears at lower speeds
Hmmm, The S&S 124 is NOT supposed to be lugged. They recommend downshifting at 3k. Idle is set just over 1k. I could see the responsiveness being more abrupt at lower speeds maybe causing some bucking. I hope I don't run into any kind of lugging issues as that will destroy this 124" motor. Thanks for the feedback!
 
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Old Aug 20, 2021 | 04:53 AM
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In fairness, guys like Billy Lane have built monster engine chops with belt drive primaries and havent had a problem. However, it sounds like you might want to hang onto the compensator to suit your riding style
 
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