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An afternoon carb rebuild never hurt anything, but I agree throttle cables need to be checked as well. Heck, could just be debris in the float bowl, good luck.
I just cannot wrap my mind around a CV. I bought my Wide Glide with a CV and a Hypercharger Air Cleaner. I don't like the carburetor or the air cleaner. I'll admit the CV works (okay I guess) after I've made some minor adjustments. As long as CV and Hypercharger live up to their end of the bargain they will remain on the Glide but any hint of acting funky they will be kicked to the curb (in a heart beat) and replaced with a S&S E. It's not worth my effort (an afternoon) to try and understand. I understand (S&S) what works for me. Lots or Rochester Quardrajet's found there way in the dumpster in favor of a simpler Holley.
Simple and cheap things first. Worth keeping if it is just turns out to be a cable issue. I'm not suggesting to totally give up on the CV. They work when they work. They might be a better carburetor then an S&S. I don't know but I am just not willing to invest time and money into figuring it out. If the CV has to come off for any reason it's not going back on.
I got to go with put a kit in it and seal the intake like mentioned above. CV is a real good carb and easy to work on.
Make sure you check for ignition melt before you dig in. Very common with evo’s.
what is ignition melt brother. I have pulled off the carb and pulled it apart and cleaned all out or what not and put it back together and it's still having raised idle and now It does out when i give it any throttle . So I am going to pull it apart again. I just bought a new pilot jet I am going to pull it all apart again and pull that and pull the intakes off and put them back on and go from there. Honestly I dont even know if it has anything to do with the carburetor I am just pulling at straws . Whatever it is it happened fast . Within a day . When I first checked it over my exhaust were lose on the headers but I tightened them down . Idk if that would have any thing to do with it . I was hear a sound like a weed whacker you know like the noise the wire make whipping around as I gave it throttle.
If the butterfly pivot rod or carb body holes are worn and sloppy that could be a problem. I do like the S&S idea though. I have one on my 93 Heritage Classic.
With the cable/valve assembled to the carburetor and the drag adjustment nut (outer) loose enough for the **** to return to the closed position on it's own (don't pull it out and let it snap closed) there should be 1/16 - 1/8" free space between the **** and outer nut. If there's more, something isn't letting the valve seat. If it goes all the way, may be a worn valve.
Take the enricher (choke) cable out at the body. Remove the valve on the end, clean it and check the cable for binding. The valve should easily slide thru that bore. If the cable or valve itself is binding in any way so the valve cannot fully seat, that will cause a high idle problem. Replace any suspect parts.
Cable - 29229-88A
Valve - 27583-88
Left valve is old style and suspect. Right valve is new.
You can check out videos on YouTube about the ignition melt. Anytime someone says they have a problem when it gets warmed up i like to check that one off the list. Not usually a high idle deal but stranger things have happened. High idle out of the blue is usually carb and or vacuum leak. As said above, check all the cheap and easy stuff first. Cables and inricher for sure. Report back when you have checked things off and when you find the problem. Helps those with same problem in the future.
Last edited by Firedude2; Oct 31, 2021 at 01:32 PM.
