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No need for an extra start relay on that bike, all you need to do is change where the starter relay gets its power from.
The relay is fed by a wire that runs from the ignition breaker to terminal 30 on the relay, this is not a great place to get power from, because the power runs through a convoluted path before getting to the ignition breaker.
You can give the relay a better source of power by running a wire from the output side of the main breaker (silver color stud) to terminal 30 of the start relay.
Keep all the electrical connections clean and corrosion free and you will have very few issues with the starting circuit.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jan 17, 2022 at 12:25 PM.
My personal advise plus what the other mates above said is to check below the instrument cluster, wires to the ignition switch and wires connection to lights and bulbs, lot of years ago one of my speedo bulbs just blown, obviously i didn't noticed at the moment, one day my speedo cable was loosen and after disassembly to re-tighten it I noticed the wire to that bulb were burned, the positive made contact with the case which is negative, that was the reason, no fire occurred but electrical issues is one the major reason for a fire start.
You could carry some circuit breakers and a starter relay for a quick replacement, and some wire sections and wire connection terminals for a situation where you need to cut a bad terminal or a bad wire section to do a quick rewire, small and cheap.
Last edited by davicico; Jan 18, 2022 at 10:55 AM.
On the cam bearing, is there any way to tell if it has been changed by looking?
One of the earlier replies mentions the timing cover rivets still in place. Best indicator of stock internals. Usually nobody rivets it closed once inside doing upgrades.
My Tip:
Don't touch anything within 5 days of leaving as you'll mess something up that takes too much time.. LOL
If you go through the preventative maintenance schedule in the factory service manual and REALLY do everything they list, you should be good. Also, make up a set of tools to carry and use those to do your maintenance. You'll know if you are short a tool. Pack up your bike with everything you're taking on the trip and go for a day ride to see how it's going to hold up. Bring rain gear too.
If you go through the preventative maintenance schedule in the factory service manual and REALLY do everything they list, you should be good. Also, make up a set of tools to carry and use those to do your maintenance. You'll know if you are short a tool. Pack up your bike with everything you're taking on the trip and go for a day ride to see how it's going to hold up. Bring rain gear too.
carl
In WA I hardly rode around the block without rain gear
OP up where you are I'd worry more about wet & cold than the bike, been both every time I've ridden in WA but I was on the pacific side of the state mostly too.
Far as the bike goes just common sense stuff like lube the cables, check battery cables for tight , top all fluids including brakes, wouldn't dick around with changing the brake fluids pre trip if things work and the fluids clear when you check.
In general just look the bike over closely and check bolts for tight or any rattles, rattles will become a problem on a road trip.
These guys have covered the rest.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Jan 18, 2022 at 05:03 PM.
One of the earlier replies mentions the timing cover rivets still in place. Best indicator of stock internals. Usually nobody rivets it closed once inside doing upgrades.
Okay, now I feel strange, I changed my timing cover and riveted it again like stock
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