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Doesn't brake clean reduce rpms when checking for intake leaks?, won't indicate because cylinder is already dead.
I thought the same thing...if the rear cylinder is not running correctly, the brake cleaner won't have as much of an effect (sounds good in theory at least).
Yes you are correct brake clean would lower rpm as it is nonflammable. I will use a flammable such as starting fluid instead.
I have had an intake leak before and cylinder fired but running very lean and hot, as well as reduced power and some idle issues. Have not seen it cause a dead cylinder. Not saying that cant happen just have not seen it before. I guess depends on the degree of the leak.
Swapping plug wires makes no difference, cold or warmed up makes no difference. I will reseat the intake again with another set of new seals and I will get new flanges to ensure they are true and not warped in any degree. The entire design of the intake is amazingly poor in my opinion, they should have used a solid flanged edge with a solid seal similar with to the way a V8 intake works. They could adjust the gasket/seal thickness as needed, but I am not a engine designer, just an old hot rod guy that rides and wrenches when necessary.
I appreciate all of the advice and will follow up after reseating / resealing the intake.
Before you start teardown or during, take a peek from the left side and see if the manifold looks centered. Eyeball gauge it from each machined shoulder of the manifold in relation to the flange, above the lower bolts is the easiest place to decide.
Avoid highly flammable spray. It can easily get sucked into the front of the carb and give a false positive.
Is this thing totally dead missing, even with with new plug in rear, even on startup? I mean to the point you can't ride/run it at all. ?
. It can easily get sucked into the front of the carb and give a false positive
This is my anti false positive rig, 2 1/2’ piece of 2” pvc, has some rubber tape on the end, probably not needed but it was there so I put some on.
Remove air cleaner, hold it on carb, spray away
Rear cylinder not firing at all. New everything as stated, tried swapping plugs and wires from to back, just plugs, and just plug end of wires, nothing changes. Will start off front cylinder with no plug wire on rear cylinder and runs the same. I can ride it like this but afraid to cause damage to engine if prolonged riding or running like this. If I remove front plug wire and try to fire rear only engine cranks with an occasional rear cylinder cough and sputter. So answer is effectively no. The rear cylinder is not firing. Maybe intake leak and too much air forcing a too lean to fire condition. If mechanically it is sound enough to run that only leaves fuel - that is ok, plug comes out wet with gas; spark - just tested again and plug out laying on primary I have decent spark on plug and consistently sparks; Air - I know air is getting into cylinder, thumb test blows thumb off plug port on compression stroke. Compression is the last piece and that passes.
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