EVO All Evo Model Discussion

No rear cylinder fire

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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 06:05 AM
  #11  
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Why stick with duel fire with that nice TT module?

Read though this if you haven't already, there's also a link to Mikuni in there
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/evofaq.aspx

"plug wet with gas" usually isn't a intake leak
 

Last edited by Schex; Feb 20, 2022 at 06:38 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 06:07 AM
  #12  
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Doesn't brake clean reduce rpms when checking for intake leaks?, won't indicate because cylinder is already dead.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Schex
Doesn't brake clean reduce rpms when checking for intake leaks?, won't indicate because cylinder is already dead.
I thought the same thing...if the rear cylinder is not running correctly, the brake cleaner won't have as much of an effect (sounds good in theory at least).
 
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 09:49 AM
  #14  
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Yes you are correct brake clean would lower rpm as it is nonflammable. I will use a flammable such as starting fluid instead.

I have had an intake leak before and cylinder fired but running very lean and hot, as well as reduced power and some idle issues. Have not seen it cause a dead cylinder. Not saying that can’t happen just have not seen it before. I guess depends on the degree of the leak.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by NavyChief79
Swapping plug wires makes no difference, cold or warmed up makes no difference. I will reseat the intake again with another set of new seals and I will get new flanges to ensure they are true and not warped in any degree. The entire design of the intake is amazingly poor in my opinion, they should have used a solid flanged edge with a solid seal similar with to the way a V8 intake works. They could adjust the gasket/seal thickness as needed, but I am not a engine designer, just an old hot rod guy that rides and wrenches when necessary.

I appreciate all of the advice and will follow up after reseating / resealing the intake.
Before you start teardown or during, take a peek from the left side and see if the manifold looks centered. Eyeball gauge it from each machined shoulder of the manifold in relation to the flange, above the lower bolts is the easiest place to decide.

Avoid highly flammable spray. It can easily get sucked into the front of the carb and give a false positive.

Is this thing totally dead missing, even with with new plug in rear, even on startup? I mean to the point you can't ride/run it at all. ?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 11:15 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by t150vej
. It can easily get sucked into the front of the carb and give a false positive
This is my anti false positive rig, 2 1/2’ piece of 2” pvc, has some rubber tape on the end, probably not needed but it was there so I put some on.
Remove air cleaner, hold it on carb, spray away


 
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 11:20 AM
  #17  
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Is the cylinder firing or not, I'm confused?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 11:52 AM
  #18  
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Rear cylinder not firing at all. New everything as stated, tried swapping plugs and wires from to back, just plugs, and just plug end of wires, nothing changes. Will start off front cylinder with no plug wire on rear cylinder and runs the same. I can ride it like this but afraid to cause damage to engine if prolonged riding or running like this. If I remove front plug wire and try to fire rear only engine cranks with an occasional rear cylinder cough and sputter. So answer is effectively no. The rear cylinder is not firing. Maybe intake leak and too much air forcing a too lean to fire condition. If mechanically it is sound enough to run that only leaves fuel - that is ok, plug comes out wet with gas; spark - just tested again and plug out laying on primary I have decent spark on plug and consistently sparks; Air - I know air is getting into cylinder, thumb test blows thumb off plug port on compression stroke. Compression is the last piece and that passes.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 12:07 PM
  #19  
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No, don't ride it like that. Was up too late and went back to read again - got me thinking may need to walk back my intake leak theory.

Got to do some stuff around here, but let me ponder on this a bit when I can concentrate and before you go buying parts. Don't ride or run it anymore.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2022 | 12:58 PM
  #20  
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If this bike has adjustable pushrods , they could have come loose and have thrown the valve timing off. End result would be a dead cylinder.
 
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