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There is a flat side on the clutch adjuster screw that allows the primary to vent through the clutch push rod shaft, through the main shaft of the transmission into the transmission and then vents through the top cover of the training...
Sorry t150::: didn't see your post..
No apology needed! I type slow so it happens to me ALL the time... lol
jusband, I applaud your inventiveness! Great job and great idea!
98hotrodfatboy, how long has your bike ran without that problem? You have to remember "if it works, it don't need fixin". It worked before it got plugged. By unplugging it now it will be as it was right? I get the "better mouse trap" mentality because I overthink things a lot because I'm OCD. I always have to pull back my own reins because I over engineer everything.
jusband, I applaud your inventiveness! Great job and great idea!
98hotrodfatboy, how long has your bike ran without that problem? You have to remember "if it works, it don't need fixin". It worked before it got plugged. By unplugging it now it will be as it was right? I get the "better mouse trap" mentality because I overthink things a lot because I'm OCD. I always have to pull back my own reins because I over engineer everything.
Funny thing is I ran it for about a thousand miles last year and never had any leaks... I took it out for two small spins this year which by the way mother nature isn't agreeing with us up here in the Northeast but it leaked out a lot of fluid right off the bat on a small ride..
Funny thing is I ran it for about a thousand miles last year and never had any leaks... I took it out for two small spins this year which by the way mother nature isn't agreeing with us up here in the Northeast but it leaked out a lot of fluid right off the bat on a small ride..
Well that's because something plugged the vent tube, right? Remember, KISS.
The primary vents thru the bore of the transmission main shaft. The clutch push rod is undersized of that bore. The throw out bearing shaft and adjuster screw each have a flat machined on them to allow venting thru the trans.
Issue is that many aftermarket clutches can be setup for either wet or dry installation. For a dry/open primary, there is a seal in the clutch hub nut that blocks off the trans from the primary side (like a dry clutch early Evo, Shovel, Pan) and a different adjuster screw to accommodate that seal. If you don't know which parts to use, that type setup on a wet clutch primary blocks off the venting for the primary.
Excellent explanation. Thanks. Even more reason to check and see if the vent tube is plugged.
Some background on my cheap trick, when i got my 86 wide glide it leaked a lot of oil around the rear of the primary. so much in fact it would get on the drive belt and combine with road grime and grind fine alloy oxide off the rear pully, this would fling off around the rear guard and every time i would touch the rear of the bike I would get the crap everywhere. it looked ugly and drove me mad. so, i went on a campaign to find the source/s. degreased the hell out of everything and put fresh lubes in the trans (green) and primary (ATF red) then rode it and then wiped a white paper towel under the front pully. Bummer i found i had both. So i tore it all down and did all the seals, trans and primary. I'm running a baker 6 speed and Rivera Primo clutch, the baker trans hat only has very small hole to vet the trans and I thought not a lot of hole to vent both primary and trans and as i was determined to do everything possible to solve the leaks. id been reading a lot on the dreaded 4 speed leaks and as the baker 6 speed is a combo of 4 & 5 speed parts and there is not enough room for the Super Nut behind the front pulley I just drilled the hole for a bit of extra insurance.
hole size I did was 1mm
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