‘97 RK, 105k miles. It also has a mid 70’s ElectraGlide fiberglass batwing fairing that adds quite a bit of weight to the front end.

After acquiring an ‘01 RK and putting 1500 miles on it since December, I hopped on the ‘97 and noticed that in hard curves, the steering seems a bit loose in comparison. ( I should have pulled the fairing and given it a ride)

It feels like the front end wants to continue in the direction of the turn, as I’m removing my downward input. No wobble or anything, but it’s almost like the the front end wants to pivot in the direction of the turn. If that makes sense.

So I followed the service manual (I removed everything including the throttle cables) and when I go full stop left, she swings back right and then slightly back left, less than midway. Indicating a too tight bearing adjuster nut. Counter intuitive to what I’m feeling.

The bearing adjustment has never been performed in 25 years, just greased regularly.

In order for me to continue and try to adjust this, I need to purchase a socket to fit the fork stem nut.

Should I just stop and take this thing to a good mechanic and have them install a new bearing?

 

I would get the socket and do myself, then agin, if you replace the bearings you have to replace the races as well, which require additional tools, and I have those tools and maybe you don't. 105k and 25 yrs of grease that needs to be done. And while your "in there" you can service the fork legs as well, I'm guessing they haven't been done either.

If you buy the tools you can service your 01 as well, my 2 cents.

Ride safe!

 

Tires on the `97 in good shape ?
Rear tire not squared off ?

 

In my opinion, too tight cause it to wonder do to oversteer imposed by operator.

My bearings still looked new at 40K. The manual said to pull them for inspection at 30k.

That's not happening again.

Tires make a bike handle like crap by the time they are half worn out especially if the have a flat especially if one drives easy and never gets in the chicken strips.

I run my Softail st the maximum of fallaway. I just basically run the adjuster so there's no play.

Taper roller bearings work best with no preload. Depends on what one like.

I can shift my weigh and steer mine is so loose. And it still tracks straight.

 

If the rear wheel is out of line it'll do that, worse in one direction that the other. If it's way off, the handle bars will not be straight. If it's only off 1/16-1/8, you can't turn loose of them without making a turn (on flat road). Best to always use a rod and measure from swing arm axle (center) to rear axle center and make sure it's right on before doing anything else concerning handling.

Never had any luck with the flimsy rod the book shows or that Motion-Pro sells. Made a primitive tool from 1/4" rod that work well.



Mine has about 160K, no grease fittings, original steering head bearings, handles great. I did convert to swing arm bearings some years ago though.

 

I am ready for new tires, Metz 888’s w/ 7500 back and 14k on the front tire.
and like the man said… 25 years of grease, and he’s right, other than changing fork oil, nothings been done to forks.
No way to get all the old grease out no matter how much I pump in, new grease comes out the bottom, but I never get any grease coming out of the top.

I’m not sure what all I need to RR the bearing race… the only bearings I’ve ever replaced are wheel and cam bearing.

Since this bike won’t get more than 1000-1500 local miles at the most this year, probably less, I’m gonna hold off until next winter.

Thanks for the advice.

 

She runs straight line just fine… I can let go of the bars, she tracks straight!

Might be a combination of the heavy fairing, old tires and just her age. I’m gonna get new tires soon and swap the fairing for the windshield and see what I notice. I think I’ll also put the fairing on the ‘01, see what that feels like.
I don’t think I would have noticed anything other than having the ‘01 to compare.

 

That's good.
One thing that really helps if you don't want to get into rebuilding/converting the swing arm, just replace the swing arm isolators. 47564-86B Use OEM only. Those things give out over time and will let the swing arm-to-frame flex in a curve causing "rear steer."

 

I replaced the swing arm isolators last year and checked the rear axle alignment to the swing arm at that time. I had a bit of rear steer going on… the new isolators solved that issue.

Hell, what I’m feeling could just be the difference in the TC having the transmission bolted to the engine case.

 

Service your wheel bearing and check the endplay when you change those tires.

I'd dump the batwing fairing just because.

carl