Idle issues '98 flhtc
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 27
Likes: 3
From: Pittsburgh
Idle issues '98 flhtc
Hi,
I'm having an issue with my bike's enricher and idle in general. I pull the enricher out full and start the bike. The idle settles in at about 850 but doesn't climb like it used to until I crack the throttle after a couple of minutes. Then it takes about 20 - 30 minutes for the idle to settle into what I have it set at (~950-1000). It never used to do this before, and just started after I had the front fairing off for a fork seal job. Could I have messed with something when I took the front part of the fairing off? Maybe the throttle cables. Bike is running fine after it settles into idle. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Mark
I'm having an issue with my bike's enricher and idle in general. I pull the enricher out full and start the bike. The idle settles in at about 850 but doesn't climb like it used to until I crack the throttle after a couple of minutes. Then it takes about 20 - 30 minutes for the idle to settle into what I have it set at (~950-1000). It never used to do this before, and just started after I had the front fairing off for a fork seal job. Could I have messed with something when I took the front part of the fairing off? Maybe the throttle cables. Bike is running fine after it settles into idle. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Mark
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,093
Likes: 7,622
From: Poolville
Possibly the cables.. Put a little more slack into the cables at the adjusters and see if it still happens.. Also check to see if you have any vacuum leaks at the carb to intake seal or the intake to cylinder head seals..
Could even need the carb rebuilt after 24 years of service..
Could even need the carb rebuilt after 24 years of service..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 10, 2022 at 06:30 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 9,562
Likes: 7,915
From: Long Island, New York
A- disconnect cables at the carb, start bike and see what happens? If that fixes the issue, yes you kinked up the cable during your front end work.
B- if no change, the carb likely just needs a good cleaning and rebuild. Find a kit for your model, 4 hour job sitting at your bench.
Good luck.
B- if no change, the carb likely just needs a good cleaning and rebuild. Find a kit for your model, 4 hour job sitting at your bench.
Good luck.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,803
Likes: 7,830
From: SE Louisiana
Yep, check that they're no leaks making the VOES not operate, idle increase after cracking the throttle might be the VOES kicking in, the VOES itself could be a vacuum leak.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 27
Likes: 3
From: Pittsburgh
So, took the bike out tonight. Warmed up the bike with the enricher out full, then half. RPMs didn't climb after a while, so I pulled the enriched out a little and no change. Cracked the throttle and RPMs jumped to 1500. Started out riding and after a few minutes pushed in the enricher all the way. Then for the next 20 minutes or so, the carb was sputtering/coughing and idle was about 800. (I have it set to about 1000 at OP temp). Kept riding, and after a few miles the idle smoothed out and the rest of the ride was great. Idle back to 1000 and no problems with the carb. Are these symptoms of a bad VOES? Or maybe something else? I'm stumped.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
Have you disturbed the carb at all, in any way like take the air cleaner off or anything along those lines?
Last edited by t150vej; May 10, 2022 at 09:16 PM.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
A mity-vac can be used to test your voes. You don't even need to remove it to test it. It's a vacuum switch which as mentioned can develop leak in the actual voes or the vacuum hose that goes from the carb (or manifold) to the voes. Check the link below, scroll about 3/4 of the way down for the info on testing the voes. If original, then replace it. The contacts inside the voes get worn and oxidize. Develops resistance in the metal contact. There is no way to clean the contacts.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:evo:engctl01
If not the hose or voes, give the carb a good once over (it's probably due for it) and replace the intake seals AND the carb to intake seal. Pay attention to the small transfer ports in the carb and the small holes in things like the slow jet and emulsion tube. It takes time and a couple cans of carb cleaner to really get it clean and make sure all ports are clear. Replace the needle jet also. (not the needle, but the needle jet), the hole the needle sits in gets worn out over the years.
To me, it sounds like an intake leak but check the easier stuff first.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:evo:engctl01
If not the hose or voes, give the carb a good once over (it's probably due for it) and replace the intake seals AND the carb to intake seal. Pay attention to the small transfer ports in the carb and the small holes in things like the slow jet and emulsion tube. It takes time and a couple cans of carb cleaner to really get it clean and make sure all ports are clear. Replace the needle jet also. (not the needle, but the needle jet), the hole the needle sits in gets worn out over the years.
To me, it sounds like an intake leak but check the easier stuff first.
Last edited by Yankee Dog; May 10, 2022 at 09:21 PM.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
If you have not replaced the carb to manifold grommet and/or had the carb off since it was replaced (after it's been on there a few weeks) then replace that first. If that doesn't fix it, refer to the previous posts. And post back...