First thought - the fan belt is slipping... just kidding.

Did you sand a bare spot on the bottom, at the mounting bolt(s) and on the bracket for new regulator? And have you checked the bracket for a good ground to frame? (you didn't mention what year so don't know which regulator you have)

Never had one do exactly that but a bad regulator ground would be my best guess.

*Sorry Kelly, went for coffee in the middle of typing and didn't see your post before finishing.

 

Hello there,
I just had this problem...
What year is your bike? What did you use for replacement rotor, stator and vr?

So, just so I'm clear, at 2000 rpm the voltage across the battery does not move from 12.3 but the leads from the vr show 14v?

 

Sorry guess i should clarify it's a 1992 ultra, Yes at 2000 RPM if I have the VR unhooked from the circuit breaker I get 14v, when I hook it to the circuit breaker, or directly to the battery, I get 12.3v. If I rev it to around 4k rpm it will drop a to 12.1. Battery is a drag specialties and I had it checked this morning and its good, Stator is twin power, rotor is compufire. I'm getting 18v at idle at the stator and goes up as expected through the RPM range, stator isn't grounded out. VR was a Vfactor initially, a drag specialties, and now a cheap amazon Just to try a different regulator from the others as everything else was checking good.

The VR mount has a good ground, but my next endevor is running a ground wire from the battery just to eliminate a grounding problem.

 

I sanded where it mounts to the body, the bottom of the regulator was bare metal. My next endeavor is running a ground wire from the battery just to eliminate that as a possibility.

 

What is the resistance between the stator pins and ground? And if you ran it with the regulator wire disconnected, you stand a good chance of blowing the regulator or the stator. At no point in the sticky does it say to do that.

 

Stator resistance was 0.4 which I was pretty sure was within tolerances. I had already gone through the sticky twice, and purchased a 3rd regulator, to no avail. I could have sworn that there was someone who suggested taking it loose from the battery and checking the output of the regulator, It was not in the sticky at the page and nobody had mentioned it in this thread, but I did recall that maybe from another forum. I'll go back through the sticky again tonight and see if i've screwed something up taking the regulator loose. I was just seeing if there was anything else that I hadn't thought of that could be the problem. Other then the battery, regulator, stator and rotor thats all that is involved in the charging system correct? Could using a different companies stator and rotor cause a problem if it's still showing the correct voltage and resistance out?

 

That is not the measurement I asked you to report. I said: What is the resistance between the stator pins and ground?

 

If you had 18 volts with the regulator not powered that's pretty typical because an alternator can easily put out that kind of power but it can do damage to other electronic equipment on your bike. The voltage regulator sees that excessive voltage and shunts it to ground so when you're only measuring 12.3 volts the voltage regulator is actually shunting too much power to ground.. Did you do an ac voltage check with the bike running regulator disconnected from the stator bring it up to 2,000 RPM you should see anywhere from 30 to 33 volts ac across the two terminals of the stator.. If you do indeed have 30 vac then your rotor and stator is fine.. The only other issue can either be your regulator or wiring going back to the negative side of the battery (grounded).. I don't know why you people buy cheap ****. You want a good charging system stick with cycle electric, do it once and done.. Not only that some one posted that you won't see proper voltage unless it's above 1200 rpm not true with a Cycle Electric setup.. They will put out 14-14.3 v at idle.. They are specifically designed that way..

 

stator to ground is 0.4

 

If that is from the stator pin to ground (either one of the pins) There's your problem

Do this with bike turned Off / not running
With the meter set to Ohms
Connect the black meter lead to ground
You measure this with the stator connection apart and put the red meter lead to one of the pins in the connector that goes to the stator.
Do this for each pin in the connector

WP