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I'm at my wits end with this bike and charging. It has a new battery, new regulator, new stator, and new rotor and I am still not getting a charge. Stator is checking out good, regulator checked out good and is showing 14 volts at the lead with it not hooked to the bike. When I hook it to the bike its not charging. showing 12.9 volts before start, 12.3 while running and not moving from that. Circuit breaker is showing good on both sides, I even ran the regulator wire to the positive side of the battery to bypass it and still no joy on charging. What am I missing?
I'm at my wits end with this bike and charging. It has a new battery, new regulator, new stator, and new rotor and I am still not getting a charge. Stator is checking out good, regulator checked out good and is showing 14 volts at the lead with it not hooked to the bike. When I hook it to the bike its not charging. showing 12.9 volts before start, 12.3 while running and not moving from that. Circuit breaker is showing good on both sides, I even ran the regulator wire to the positive side of the battery to bypass it and still no joy on charging. What am I missing?
Are you reading the voltage (12.9/12.3) on the fairing gauge or on a separate voltmeter at the battery?
Just because a battery is new doesn't mean it's good and moreimportantly,these factory volt gauges are not the most dependable. If fairing gauge is reading 12.9 with engine off/switch on, that's suspect.....
Battery cables can harbor internal corrosion above the lugs. If the cables are original, it's a cheap replacement. They can be good enough to show continuity with a meter...but still be a source of problems.
Are you reading the voltage (12.9/12.3) on the fairing gauge or on a separate voltmeter at the battery?
Just because a battery is new doesn't mean it's good and moreimportantly,these factory volt gauges are not the most dependable. If fairing gauge is reading 12.9 with engine off/switch on, that's suspect.....
Thats with a volt meter, the gauge is showing 10 volts and never relied on it anyway. This was the second new battery because Ive thought the same thing and still the same problem
Follow the diagnostic procure at the top of the electrical sub forum. And make sure to check continuity and resistance of all the wiring.
Followed the diagnostics and these all are new parts , including a second new stator second new regulator and second new battery. Everything is showing it should be working it just isnt. I know there has to be something Im missing just cant figure this one out.
Battery cables can harbor internal corrosion above the lugs. If the cables are original, it's a cheap replacement. They can be good enough to show continuity with a meter...but still be a source of problems.
I had changed those to larger gauge about 3 years ago. Maybe they could be corroded by now? Ive checked the connections and they are all good.
has to be above 1200RPM (might be more) Harley's don't charge at idle.
Sounds like a short in the battery.
with the regulator hooked up as its supposed to at 2000 RPMs it shows 12.3 volts and if I rev it higher it drops to 12.1. This is the second new battery because I thought the same thing. Im at a loss.
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