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Sometimes we do what we have to do but as mentioned, best to go with quality parts - OEM, Cycle Electric or Compufire.
The rotor should be fine but I'd suggest you replace the VR with a new stator. Reason being, the modern 32amp quality regulators (as listed) use a different circuitry that unloads the stator when voltage is maxed, whereas the cheap ones simply dump the voltage off thru a zenier diode in the form of heat, keeping the stator fully loaded at all times.
If that is from the stator pin to ground (either one of the pins) There's your problem
Do this with bike turned Off / not running
With the meter set to Ohms
Connect the black meter lead to ground
You measure this with the stator connection apart and put the red meter lead to one of the pins in the connector that goes to the stator.
Do this for each pin in the connector
WP
is this measuring the pins from the stator or is this the connector on the voltage regulator that goes to the stator?
is this measuring the pins from the stator or is this the connector on the voltage regulator that goes to the stator?
Unplug the regulator and check each stator pin to ground (on the engine case) is what he was saying.
Set the meter at it's lowest ohm setting - x1, x10, x100 whatever. If it's auto range, it'll do it by itself. Qualify the reading by touching both leads together and see what it reads. If it shows .1 or .2 or whatever, subtract that from the reading you get on each pin. Leads will most often have some resistance, even new ones....
is this measuring the pins from the stator or is this the connector on the voltage regulator that goes to the stator?
There should be a connector that one side goes to the V reg and the other side goes to the stator measure on the stator side.
Chit I can't recall what the connector looks like ona 92 ultra to describe any better
If you can get this test figured out to do it properly you want No read at all. In other words OL /out of limits / no continuity
If you get any reading at all it means the stator or it's wiring is shorted to ground
Looks like the stator had shorted to ground even through it was only a week old, not sure if it was something I inadvertently did or what. I ended up going with a Compufire 3 phase kit and just started over from square one. Everything is working good now, probably better for a 30 year old bike with over 100k on it.
Thanks guys for the help! Been a lurker on this forum for years and its usually had my answers without me having to post anything.
Last stator I replaced,went with cycle electric. I also extended the leads thru the case and rtv’d it. Made my own connectors,that’s where the weak point is.
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