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Yeah stock cams for that year are a joke. Even a mild upgrade would shock you in improvement. If it's running OK then no, the ignition has basically nothing to do with low power unless the timing is off and/or the voes is missing, defective or otherwise not working.
With those miles, if the compression is good, I'd put a Dyna 2Ki ignition in and never look back. While "near" there, an Andrews 23 if you want a good Tour bike cam or the EV27 or similar if you want to ride over 80 mph most of the time.
Nobody seems to think about it but at 5k rpms - the flywheel is actually turning 10,000 times a minute...
No... at 5k yer doin 5k at the crank... remember... the tach can Only measure Triggers... ... one trigger per engine revolution!!!
that is whay a stock tach dooes Not work with Single Fire... eithe pick a Coil...or tie them together...(good bye Single Fire)
Last edited by Racepres; Jul 25, 2022 at 08:07 AM.
No... at 5k yer doin 5k at the crank... remember... the tach can Only measure Triggers... ... one trigger per engine revolution!!!
that is whay a stock tach dooes Not work with Single Fire... eithe pick a Coil...or tie them together...(good bye Single Fire)
Ohhh. We'll not be doing the OP any favors making this a 200 post thread like the ft/lb vs lb/ft thread I saw in another section lol... and I may be proven wrong and that'd be fine too. I've been wrong before and love learning, really, but...
Dual fire lights both tower outputs every time around, one for the front, one for the rear giving a wasted spark on the exhausting cylinder. If you connect an old inductive tach that is not designed for, and has a switch for a 2-cycle engine, the rpms will show double of the factory tach every time. Most aftermarket single fire ignitions have a dedicated trigger wire for the factory tach. There's one that doesn't (don't remember the brand) and requires an external adapter to use the stock tach.
Factory tach has a processor that only counts every other trigger. Go to a parts store buy an regular automotive tach , wire it to the coil just like you would a '65 Chevy and it'll show double the rpms on a Harley that has stock ignition.
I hate it when you buy a bike in good faith, then find out that you are going to have to spend more money than you thought to get it right. Oh well, live and learn......... again.
I think you need to go easy on your seller here. There's no evidence there is anything wrong with the bike you bought. (Other than the CPS, which looks to be on it's way out, but there's no reason to think the seller would have had any reason to know that.)
You buy a 24yo bike, you're going to have to give it some love.
Ohhh. We'll not be doing the OP any favors making this a 200 post thread like the ft/lb vs lb/ft thread I saw in another section lol... and I may be proven wrong and that'd be fine too. I've been wrong before and love learning, really, but...
Dual fire lights both tower outputs every time around, one for the front, one for the rear giving a wasted spark on the exhausting cylinder. If you connect an old inductive tach that is not designed for, and has a switch for a 2-cycle engine, the rpms will show double of the factory tach every time. Most aftermarket single fire ignitions have a dedicated trigger wire for the factory tach. There's one that doesn't (don't remember the brand) and requires an external adapter to use the stock tach.
Factory tach has a processor that only counts every other trigger. Go to a parts store buy an regular automotive tach , wire it to the coil just like you would a '65 Chevy and it'll show double the rpms on a Harley that has stock ignition.
nope again... 4 stroke engine... and... both plugs fire together... ie at same time... yes twice... ie wasted spark... but twice equals Once per revolution..,.basically
now back to ignitions....
Ohhh. We'll not be doing the OP any favors making this a 200 post thread like the ft/lb vs lb/ft thread I saw in another section lol... and I may be proven wrong and that'd be fine too. I've been wrong before and love learning, really, but...
Dual fire lights both tower outputs every time around, one for the front, one for the rear giving a wasted spark on the exhausting cylinder. If you connect an old inductive tach that is not designed for, and has a switch for a 2-cycle engine, the rpms will show double of the factory tach every time. Most aftermarket single fire ignitions have a dedicated trigger wire for the factory tach. There's one that doesn't (don't remember the brand) and requires an external adapter to use the stock tach.
Factory tach has a processor that only counts every other trigger. Go to a parts store buy an regular automotive tach , wire it to the coil just like you would a '65 Chevy and it'll show double the rpms on a Harley that has stock ignition.
nope again... 4 stroke engine... remember... wasted spark.. effectively one trigger per revolution, one per cylinder.. but two per coil.. ie... one per revolution
edit; going single fire... still one trigger per revolution, at Each coil... but... cant attach tach to both coils. that is where the old Dyna Isolator came in, to attach both coils to isolator such that tach could "see" both triggers. if you attach one of the single fire coils to yer tach... it will read 1/2 because it only "sees" one cylinder..
IDC how automotive **** works, don't work on yer H-D except... the Autometer... yup, I gots a couple.
Last edited by Racepres; Jul 25, 2022 at 02:35 PM.
nope again... 4 stroke engine... remember... wasted spark.. effectively one trigger per revolution..
edit; going single fire... still one trigger per revolution... but... cant attach tach to both coils. that is where the old Dyna Isolator came in..
if you attach single fire (one of the coils) to yer tach... it will read 1/2 because it only "sees" one cylinder.
IDC how automotive **** works, don't work on yer H-D except... the Autometer... yup, I gots a couple.
Won't say you're wrong and certainly won't claim I'm right. But forgetting dual fire, offset trigger windows of the cup or points cam, the flywheel has to go round twice for the front (individually) or the rear (individually) to fire on compression. How whatever tach arrangement reads it is another study in electronics and way above my pay grade. My insanity may only be a play on words in the end.
At any rate, I think with a cool night, gallon of white liquor and a campfire we could have a really fun conversation. I suspect we can agree on that?
In the mean time, I'll make this my last reply on the subject - quoting and referring to myself
Originally Posted by t150vej
Ohhh. We'll not be doing the OP any favors making this a 200 post thread like the ft/lb vs lb/ft thread I saw in another section lol... and I may be proven wrong and that'd be fine too. I've been wrong before and love learning, really, but...
Dual fire lights both tower outputs every time around, one for the front, one for the rear giving a wasted spark on the exhausting cylinder. If you connect an old inductive tach that is not designed for, and has a switch for a 2-cycle engine, the rpms will show double of the factory tach every time. Most aftermarket single fire ignitions have a dedicated trigger wire for the factory tach. There's one that doesn't (don't remember the brand) and requires an external adapter to use the stock tach.
Factory tach has a processor that only counts every other trigger. Go to a parts store buy an regular automotive tach , wire it to the coil just like you would a '65 Chevy and it'll show double the rpms on a Harley that has stock ignition.
Won't say you're wrong and certainly won't claim I'm right. But forgetting dual fire, offset trigger windows of the cup or points cam, the flywheel has to go round twice for the front (individually) or the rear (individually) to fire on compression. How whatever tach arrangement reads it is another study in electronics and way above my pay grade. My insanity may only be a play on words in the end.
At any rate, I think with a cool night, gallon of white liquor and a campfire we could have a really fun conversation. I suspect we can agree on that?
In the mean time, I'll make this my last reply on the subject - quoting and referring to myself
This did get off on a tangent, but still the answer is worth knowing and the debating helps me understand. It is my belief that when a rev limiter is set, it refers to engine RPM. this just a thought, if it was referenced to cam speed, there would be warnings all over about over revving the motor.
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