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So first I appreciate everyone’s assistance in trying to get the bike running. I’m down to the last two issues, tires and brake light switch at hand controls.
tires, I can figure that out
my brake light stays lit as if I was using the brakes. I swapped out grips today and took apart the throttle and master cylinder portion of the controls. My brake lever is simple, one pin going through it and a pivot end in the control that engages the piston. Now, the front brakes do not appear to be dragging. On the piston there is a tab that is supposed to , when the lever is released and piston comes out, this tab is supposed to push on the brake switch essentially turning the brake light off.
I have diagnosed that with the key switch on, I can push the button w my finger fairly easily and the brake light goes off. But it does not appear the piston has enough pressure to turn the switch off and does not even appear to stay in alignment.
again, I have 1986 Electra glide someone put a “same era” road king front end on.
I tried to put a spring in the master cylinder assembler both on the piston and in an empty cup next to it with no luck.
Very common problem. These switches last about 20 years, the cheap aftermarket ones vary but usually not too long.
very easy thing to screw up. You're gonna read the bit about the cardboard spacer and discount it but you need to relieve some of the leverage you're fighting to get the wiring back in the switch housing without pinching them.
not a hard fix per se but it just requires you to pay attention to the details. That eyeglass sized screw may fight you as well.
you got this!
- Tom
Rebuild the master cylinder
The "O" rings on the plunger are probably shot.
I'll assume this bike isn't new to you, and you're using the
correct brake fluid.
Bike is brand new to me. Let’s say the master cylinder is supposed to push the piston out and have the flag/tab on the piston press the brake switch, it still appears to have a problem staying in alignment as the piston wants to rotate / spin
Looking at rebuild kits I can’t see any that have a piston w that tab for the brake switch. The lever does not touch it the piston n tab engage the switch button
The "piston" pushes back against the lever, the lever pushes against the switch button to "TURN IT OFF"
The switch is a normally closed type and engages when released.
If you can't get or maintain pressure the plunger in the master cylinder isn't holding or you've got air in the line.
So first I appreciate everyone’s assistance in trying to get the bike running. I’m down to the last two issues, tires and brake light switch at hand controls.
tires, I can figure that out
my brake light stays lit as if I was using the brakes. I swapped out grips today and took apart the throttle and master cylinder portion of the controls. My brake lever is simple, one pin going through it and a pivot end in the control that engages the piston. Now, the front brakes do not appear to be dragging. On the piston there is a tab that is supposed to , when the lever is released and piston comes out, this tab is supposed to push on the brake switch essentially turning the brake light off.
I have diagnosed that with the key switch on, I can push the button w my finger fairly easily and the brake light goes off. But it does not appear the piston has enough pressure to turn the switch off and does not even appear to stay in alignment.
again, I have 1986 Electra glide someone put a “same era” road king front end on.
I tried to put a spring in the master cylinder assembler both on the piston and in an empty cup next to it with no luck.
First I’d try loosening the brake lever screws and turn it a little bit one way or the other… so lever goes up or down like you’re twisting the throttle. I’ve got the original switch on my ‘88 but when I replaced the lever I had this problem. Changing position a touch fixed it.
The "piston" pushes back against the lever, the lever pushes against the switch button to "TURN IT OFF"
The switch is a normally closed type and engages when released.
If you can't get or maintain pressure the plunger in the master cylinder isn't holding or you've got air in the line.
this is what I thought too , however, the lever has no tab to touch the button. It’s rounded off, appears to be by design. Again, the piston has a tab on it that engages the button
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