From the front suspension thread
"Did your solenoid have the grounding block attached to it? I am guessing I can just attach the wires that were on the block to the lead that grounds out to the riser."
Attach them together and to the top tree, adding a ground from the tree to the frame helps on the electrical side.

 

Just a thought here,if ur gonna change out the springs,why not change over to their cartridges instead.Get rid of all the air crap,and no more leaking seals.Mine handles better since the upgrade and tracks straight again.

 

No way would I use tape to make a seal driver. If you get a rebuild kit that has a spare washer that goes between the seal and upper bushing, it might work if you rest it on the seal and drive it with wrapped tape.. Tape by itself will likely damage the seal.. 1 1 /2 PVC with the ends cut square is a better idea.. Split it down the middle with a hacksaw..

 

Thats how I did mine. Nothing special regarding tools. Impact helps to remove the allen bolt as you need something that spins fast. Replace those copper sealing washers on the allen bolt .

I bought a kit from drag specialties that has all the wearable items like the bushings, seals, washers,snap ring etc. After removal, I think the thing that took the longest was the cleaning of all the parts. I just used degreaser, soap and water to get all the grime out of the sliders. Then blow dry.

MIght be a good time to clean up/polish up the lowers also. I did mine at about 35k and the bushings looked fine, but I replaced them anyways. I did use.

 

This is a cheap seal driver that worked fine for my 49mm forks.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1314545...search_click=1

I also got the fork vice blocks and they worked fine.
I can see that the heavier metal ones would be better.

 

Im changing out to Progressive springs, at least. I initially was going to go with cartridges, but my Indy said 90% of riders on a FLT aren't going to push the bike hard enough to tell the difference between the Progressive springs and cartridges. I am definitely getting rid of the air ride, my plan now is progressive springs, oil and seals and seal it up with no air components. The grounding block on the air manifold services other components, but I can ground them out elsewhere ( Thanks Shex). I will probably go with chrome lowers while I have it all apart also. Thanks for all of the tips and advice so far, I just need to order parts now ( the hard part). Wheel, dash, and handlebars are off as well as that air system, so fork bolts are ready. I'm just going to do 1 side at a time and leave the fender on. New seals are a given, what is the thought on replacing the bushings as well? I did score a Jims seal driver for $20, I couldn't pass it up. My buddy upgraded to a newer bike with 49mm forks so he has no need for this one anymore.

 

I have the PVC piece, used it for years. It worked by always a bit of a PITA. The tape I wrapped it until it was the thickness of the seal and of course it is soft. If does not move or slide, make very quick work of the installation. Zero chance of it damaging the seal. Will use this method in the future, give it a try.

 

DO the bushings. I'd use OEM bushings, clearance to the tube will be on the bottom clearance number. Went through this awhile back and tried the "off" brand ones. Clearance was on high side , which allows for more tube , slider slop. Just my experience.

 

I've used duct tape and wrap it until it's the same thickness as the seal, done this many of times on different bikes and never had an issue. To the OP, you'll need a 6mm long reach allen socket and get the allen head drain screws. New copper crush washers all around. Also go heavy duty on the oil, you'll thank me later after the first ride.

Ride safe!

 

Just waiting on parts now. Whoever decided to use screws instead of bolts on the cowbells should be shot....