Adjust the clutch and the clutch cable according to the Factory Service Manual, set the proper primary chain tension, and make sure the primary lube level is correct.

If the problem still exists, you can adjust the shifter pawl.

Don`t expect miracles.

Correct lube level:

 

When I picked up my FLHTP, the P.O. struggled to find neutral, and mentioned this.
I managed to find an original '92 owners manual.
Page 20, the book reads "Because of shift drum design, it is not possible to locate neutral from second"
With this in mind, I've had no trouble getting to neutral.
Is this unique to the FLHTP?

 

My 1998 Owner's Manual also states that it is not possible to get to Neutral from Second. To be honest, I never tried; I never had to as mine slides right into Neutral from First. The 1998 Owner's Manual is all inclusive, FX, FL, XL, all of them.

 

Being able to catch neutral is controlled by the rod that runs through the clutch pack. Take all the slack out of the cable and losen the locking nut on the clutch rod. Screw the rod out about 1/2 turn then slowly turn it in gently until it stops. Then back it out 1/4 and lock it down. Adjust your cable and try it. Repeat as necessary until it's where you want it.

 

I adjusted the clutch many times on my ‘01 in an attempt to make finding neutral easier. Never worked. I installed a Hayden M6 chain tensioner, that worked!

I installed the M6 on my ‘97 when she was new and have never experienced an issue of any kind. I check it every 10k when I change the primary fluid, it’s still adjusted perfectly and the shoe shows very little wear at 106k miles.

 

When the clutch discs get worn the distance is reduced in the clutch rod causing the clutch plates to drag < this is the reason the netural is not happening

If the guy did what I suggested - it would work = nothing else has any affect on netural - unless your in Ukraine driving a Russian tank then all bets are off

 

Step one, the clutch spring/grenade plate, change it like clock work every 30K. You may get a little more out of it before it starts snapping off brass rivets, but when it does that, it going to take out the clutch hub and going to be a lot more expensive then just a spring plate at $30. Plus, give you a chance to look at the clutch discs and plates to see if they need to be replaced.


While you have the clutch apart, pull the comp and check the run out of the clutch basket bearing. Even new, it not going to run perfectly true, but if you have major wobble of the hub as it as it spun in and out (not running concentric), then its time for replace the clutch hub bearing.
Note, most of the time, this is the problem in itself as why you are having clutch plate drag with the lever in, and not so much the grenade plate going out instead.

On primary chain, adjust it correctly, and it will be good for another 30K before you have to replace the grenade plate again.
Note, depending on how you ride, the extra disc clutch packs are a hit or miss to lose the grenade plate . I tried the extra clutch kit to get rid of the spring plate, but had nothing but problems getting the clutch to lock up correctly on hard launches without the clutch making a ton of noise, and went back to the stock clutch.

Shifter pawl is easy to adjust via the lob bolt, and just make sure to use some sealer on the threads before before you crank back down on the jam nut to lock it into the postion. On that note, make sure that the shifter lever is tight at the same time to the shifter shaft. Its easy to check when you are adjusting the shifter pawn adjuster with the trans cover plate off, since if the shifter arm is loose to shaft, your going to feel it as you are adjusting the pawl.

As for center hub bolt, spin in until it will just hold the weight of an allen wrench with the cable adjuster all the way in, back out the allen bolt 1/4 turn, lock it down with the jam nut, and the do your final adjusting with the shifter cable adjuster .

As for lube in the primary to the correct level, the thicker the lube, the worse is going to make the problem, since it cause more viscosity drag on the clutch plates. ATF in the primary will make finding neutral easier, but 10-40 motor oil is your better bet to keep the primary lubed and noise levels down.

Now the trick after all this, with the bike in first, put light pressure on the heal shifter and give the throttle a light blip. As the RPM's come down, it will shift into neutral with ease, since it's reducing the clutch plate viscosity drag on the clutch.

 

with a little up pressure on the toe shifter blip the throttle and it should slip into neutral ... been riding my 1996 FLHTCI since it was new and this has worked for me and others

 

I've been vexed for years by the neutral on my '90 FLH. Every possible combination of everything already suggested above got me to where it is almost, but not exactly, easy. But the throttle blip (and it takes almost zero actual blip) never lets me down.

It almost doesn't make sense. Since I've had the bike, I've replaced the primary chain, the throwout bearing and rod, the clutch pack, the primary chain tensioner, the main drive gear, the ball and ramp, the clutch cable, and who knows what else I'm forgetting. (All of that was for other reasons...not chasing neutral.) I've run a half dozen different types of oil in the primary. All that, and despite the most meticulous adjustment possible, it has never gotten to that magic place where neutral practically finds itself.

Weird thing, my '90 FXR (that shared pretty much all the relevant parts with the FLH) had the easiest neutral ever. And my '97 Sportster is the same way. Snick, snick. Easy.

Some bikes are just weird like that, I guess.

 

Throe the grenade plate away and put two friction plates in there, check stack height and adjust with steel plates. Will last forever then.