Speedometer again
Speedometer is working but odometer is stuck while tenths was turning to zero, now I once again have no fuel gauge,new OEM speedo, lasted almost 14k , what can be done, this is forth since I owned it...
1986 wide glide..
1986 wide glide..
Road racing we use a GPS speedo very small helps the rider corner speed but the factory uses china for its quality stuff SO
china under sea auto and truck tunnels have major leaks and everyone thinks its OK you get a salt water wash top and bottom and passage for one price
china under sea auto and truck tunnels have major leaks and everyone thinks its OK you get a salt water wash top and bottom and passage for one price
On speedo, mech unit, so would check the cable/make sure its lubed and check the other end to make sure you don't have a worn out gear in the drive unit.

Short of that, just bad speedo;s that it internals are not holding up instead.
As for fuel sensor/gauge, would give it a once over to find it problem. Hence move the float arm up and down while you check resistance on the senor to make sure it working to begin with.
Worst case, may have to pull apart the gauge to re-solder some of the connectors in it, and even a light bit of lube if the needle part is sticking, not slowly returning to Zero when you such the bike off.
On my fuel level unit in a 97 RK, it uses a ground off one of the shafts for a nuts on the outside that had broken the solder joint in the unit when the bolt was over torqued to twist the nut shaft, and soldering that area back up, resolve the the problem of the gauge not working. Hence gauge working was depend on how tight I had the connector bolts, or if one of the nuts needed to be loosened, so know that it was a connection problem in side the gauge that was the problem at hand.

Short of that, just bad speedo;s that it internals are not holding up instead.
As for fuel sensor/gauge, would give it a once over to find it problem. Hence move the float arm up and down while you check resistance on the senor to make sure it working to begin with.
Worst case, may have to pull apart the gauge to re-solder some of the connectors in it, and even a light bit of lube if the needle part is sticking, not slowly returning to Zero when you such the bike off.
On my fuel level unit in a 97 RK, it uses a ground off one of the shafts for a nuts on the outside that had broken the solder joint in the unit when the bolt was over torqued to twist the nut shaft, and soldering that area back up, resolve the the problem of the gauge not working. Hence gauge working was depend on how tight I had the connector bolts, or if one of the nuts needed to be loosened, so know that it was a connection problem in side the gauge that was the problem at hand.
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