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i completely torn the motor apart split the case and made sure everything was free of metal from the old pump that was tore up. honed cylinders, new rings, new main bearings, new cam bearing, new breather valve, and new oil pump plus all the gaskets. bike fires right up no issues. i followed s&s new motor brake in
also all oil filters are harley and using 20/50 harley oil
A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.
B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.
C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.
D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.
E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.
F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.
CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.
G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.
H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.
everything went well i took it for the 50 mile ride and around 25 miles oil started coming out to the head breather i cleaned the tappet screen that was loaded with what i would call lint from cleaning even though i used lint less rags lol. i took the bike for the balance of the 50 miles and then changed the oil.
the oil was dirty as expected and the filter was full of oil. after changing the oil and filter i took the bike for a ride and didn't make 10 miles before oil started coming from the head breather.
i checked the tappet screen and it was clean i then checked the oil filter and it had NO oil in it. i checked all the oil lines and connections and the are all correct. so i filled the filter with oil and the started the bike and after a few seconds i see the oil moving in the oil tank and i have oil pressure on the gauge.
i go for another ride and after 20 miles oil once again comes out of the breather. i now think the relief valve could be getting stuck. i remove the spring and valve and then use a gray scotch brite to clean and make sure the valve is smooth. i also clean the tappet screen for good measure. i then take the bike back out and put 57 miles before it starts blowing oil out of the breather again..
once again i check the oil filter and it has little to no oil so i change the filter with another new filter filling it with oil and then installing. start the bike verify oil is returning to the oil tank, go for another ride and dont make it 5 miles and the oil flow starts again.
i am at a loss on what to do other then replacing a brand new pump. tomorrow i will also call s&s tec to see what they say.
Two things - (from your other thread, if I didn't overlook anything) 1 - You never found where the metal came from. (?)
2 - Did you use OEM umbrella valves? Aftermarket are basically junk, will work sometimes but not for long - they get brittle very quickly.
Exactly what brand/number oil filter are you using?
Don't waste your time calling S&S. I promise, they will be of zero help on this.
S&S is Known to have sent some Shovel pumps out that were Not finished properly if at all, at the check ball seat... I got one.. Remove to do it right... Not hone with a Pushrod!!!! Highly possible Evo pumps got out this way also!!
Last edited by Racepres; May 30, 2023 at 07:32 AM.
Are you sure the rings are fully seated..? A leak down test will tell you.. You positive the breather gear timing is correct? As for the umbrella valves as said HD green umbrella valves are the best, I use nothing but .
thank you for the replies and sorry for the delay in responding. work and life have been very demanding and have left very little time for anything other then sleep..
i contacted s&s tech support and they were 100% positive that the key way for the scavenger gear set was sheared and needed to be replaced..
i disassembled the pump and the key way was intact. now knowing that was not the issue i checked all the lines for clogs even though i knew that was not the issue everything was clear.
i then checked the passages inside of the pump i found that on the new pump i found one passage that would not pass air see red circle
with that knowledge i then checked the old cover and this same passage i was able to blow air into the line that goes to the filter. so i then checked the directions and with this pump there was a few pages to look at but this picture answered my issue.
the cover i have is the 31-6062.. my mistake was i thought port 4&5 were the same but now i know i have the oil filter file hooked up to port 4 and i needed to be hooked up to port 5. i made the change and my sumping issue went away..
so my rushing to get the bike back in the road cost me more time and headaches. lesson learned read everything before installing..
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new oil pump sumping?
