@Dano523 I did a couple dry runs with straight combos and found the 11/16 to be really tight against the shifter arm and cylinder. So I cut up a cheapo 12pt box end to get some good angles. Wrench clears the linkage, plug wires, and cylinder. No busted knuckles.

Hacking up a 1/4 wrench was unnecessary, a waste of time. As a ignition wrench fit right in there and took a second to adjust the offset screw.

I'd of bought the specialty tools just because I'm a tool *****, but making them is fun too.

 

I did something similar putting sort of a sideways "S" bend to the wrench with some heat. The Dyna's for some reason are a little tricky to get in there, but yah still gotta love those Dynas!

 

Test ride done, and no Bueno. Still jamming up when shifting. Looks like rebuild time. Decisions, decisions. Leaning toward a dd5 from baker.

Bummer

 

having slept on it, the troubling thought is that this doesn't always happen. I'm going to start by pulling the clutch pack down to verify that everything is good in there. Its got to come apart anyhow for the trans removal, so easy first.

After that it's tear down time. I'm thinking shifter forks are sprung. Possible the po really jammed on this with the adjuster being out. Kind of puzzling that it will shift properly then not.

Instead of throwing bread at it, step by step. We'll see how it goes.

 

Think I got to the bottom of it today. Disassembled the clutch pack and found the judder plate falling apart. Several rivets failed, allowing the spring steel bits to cut a trough in the clutch basket. Guess that's why it was locking up at speed, felt like the trans not shifting but it was the clutch not releasing? It jives with what I'm seeing.

Hopefully the local independent has a clutch pack on the shelf.

 

Ugly, that's actually a fairly common problem with the old clutch setup.

 

Should I be concerned about this happening on my '92 FLHS?

 

@SparkyD If you're having issues with clutch adjustment 'keeping" or trouble shifting...or near 30K miles I'd at least pull it down to inspect it.

Lesson learned, low cost this time.

@TwiZted Biker yep, was thinking not me, til it was.


Next time it'll be part of the prep before I put a evo on the road.

 

Yes.

 

Yes on the grenade ring, and since your checking the spring plate every 30K, just replace it at the same time.
You can get the spring plates for $30 for the big twins and even cheaper for the sporters, instead of missing it before it grenades, and take out $400+ work of basket/hub/clutch hub bearing with it (the damage to the bearing, can come from trying to get it out so you can reuse it again).

As for running the extra disc kits, since this takes the Jutter spring plate out of play, can end up with some clutch Jutter.noise on hard launches.
In later clutches, they did away with the spring plate ( the grenade ring), and went to a jutter spring set up isntead. So really wish that someone would just come up with a retro fit to make the newer design work for older clutch hubs, instead of having to upgrade later hub/basket set up/to a after market clutch hub set up, to have a jutter spring in play.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo/1...dations-2.html

To add if rest of clutch plates and friction rings are still good, Alto has the red eagle friction plates at $7 each to replace the two OEM friction plates that the grenade ring grooved as the brass rivets got loose.

On the other hand, if the clutch steel discs got blued to hell when the spring plate came apart, then just replace all the clutch plates and friction discs. When the plates went blue, they got heat treated and will never have the same surface tension as the rest of the plate.