Rear cylinder doesn't run
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 820
From: Moneta, Virginia
I also swapped the igniton module from my Roadking. Same result.
I also double checked the manifold for any leaks. I also removed the manifold so I look at the intake valves. These ate moving up and down on both cylinders nicely.
I also did a static timing check. Bam! Two nice blue sparks on the TDC mark on the Flywheel.
I already installed a clear plug, this weekend a timing strobe will arrive. Then i can time it for real.
I also double checked the manifold for any leaks. I also removed the manifold so I look at the intake valves. These ate moving up and down on both cylinders nicely.
I also did a static timing check. Bam! Two nice blue sparks on the TDC mark on the Flywheel.
I already installed a clear plug, this weekend a timing strobe will arrive. Then i can time it for real.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 29
Likes: 10
From: The Netherlands
Whoops my bad I did mean the advance mark. One dot @35°. Tomorrow i going to time it with a light.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 29
Likes: 10
From: The Netherlands
If you swap the front and rear spark plug wires, does it act the same? If not it may provide a clue.
If you swap the front and rear spark plugs (not at the same time as you swap the wires) does anything change?
I have seen a spark plug that failed to fire under compression, drove me crazy until I replaced both plugs on my 1973 Sportster Iron Head.
Just guesses, hopefully, you will get it figured out.
If you swap the front and rear spark plugs (not at the same time as you swap the wires) does anything change?
I have seen a spark plug that failed to fire under compression, drove me crazy until I replaced both plugs on my 1973 Sportster Iron Head.
Just guesses, hopefully, you will get it figured out.
I did swap them en replace them and swapped them again!
Maybe I'll need to gets my hands on a different Spark plugs.
This weekend I'm going to further investigate my timing and then I'll try an other brand Sprak Plug
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 820
From: Moneta, Virginia
On my 97 RK, two dots indicate the correct advance on the front cylinder.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 34
Likes: 30
From: Northeast Louisiana
This is probably a long shot especially since you have already changed the plugs but make sure that the plugs are gapped correctly.
Spark plug gap is rarely an issue but when that particular gremlin gets you it can be rough to figure out. It can be hard to diagnose but very simple to eliminate.
Spark plug gap is rarely an issue but when that particular gremlin gets you it can be rough to figure out. It can be hard to diagnose but very simple to eliminate.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 29
Likes: 10
From: The Netherlands
Here is an update from my side
I checked the cam, crank breather gear position and those are correct!
Changed the oil, all good there.
Currently I `borrowed` the CV carb and coil from my ´90 Fat Boy. Just to rule things out.
Problem remained the same
My Timing light came in, it is a simple light with no preset settings. After Static timing I still could not get it to run on 2 cylinders.
Then I started searching the internet again.
Turns out my flywheels have the following markings:
35° advance one dot
20° advance 2 dots
TDC Vertical line
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/i..._timing_00.htm
My manual says otherwise. But I think I have a 1997 export model (original produced for the Dutch market)
So if i look down my timing hole on the combustion stroke off the first cylinder the firts mark i see is the single dot, than the double dot and right that after the vertical line.
So i can only image that i should static time it on the single dot (35°) and go from there.
I did exactly that and it runs better than before but still not perfect. If i look with my timing light i can see the vertical line exact in the middle of the timing hole. I think that is correct!
Still the rear cylinder is a little colder and skips a beat every once and a while.
The story continues
I don't know if it has been there all along or if it happens during the tuning but I feel air (no oil) between the rear cylinder and rear cylinder head.
The rocker covers and D rings are fine but it is the head gasket.
Can this small leak cause the rear cylinder to still not run properly? Or is it still ignition related?
I checked the cam, crank breather gear position and those are correct!
Changed the oil, all good there.
Currently I `borrowed` the CV carb and coil from my ´90 Fat Boy. Just to rule things out.
Problem remained the same
My Timing light came in, it is a simple light with no preset settings. After Static timing I still could not get it to run on 2 cylinders.
Then I started searching the internet again.
Turns out my flywheels have the following markings:
35° advance one dot
20° advance 2 dots
TDC Vertical line
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/i..._timing_00.htm
My manual says otherwise. But I think I have a 1997 export model (original produced for the Dutch market)
So if i look down my timing hole on the combustion stroke off the first cylinder the firts mark i see is the single dot, than the double dot and right that after the vertical line.
So i can only image that i should static time it on the single dot (35°) and go from there.
I did exactly that and it runs better than before but still not perfect. If i look with my timing light i can see the vertical line exact in the middle of the timing hole. I think that is correct!
Still the rear cylinder is a little colder and skips a beat every once and a while.
The story continues
I don't know if it has been there all along or if it happens during the tuning but I feel air (no oil) between the rear cylinder and rear cylinder head.
The rocker covers and D rings are fine but it is the head gasket.
Can this small leak cause the rear cylinder to still not run properly? Or is it still ignition related?
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,421
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
Don't know what your manual actually says, but the flywheel marks you listed are correct. With the timing light, engine rev-ved to 2000 rpm and VOES operating (you've checked it) the engine is properly timed when the single dot is centered. 35° BTC.
If you've got the line centered at any engine speed (over dead still) the timing is way to low.
If you've got the line centered at any engine speed (over dead still) the timing is way to low.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 29
Likes: 10
From: The Netherlands
Okey wait a minute, I reading my manual once again. And i think tomorrow i'm going to do the follwing
Static time it on TDC.
Is this correct?
Static time it on TDC.
- I remove the spark plugs but let the spark wires attachted
- Put the flywheel mark on TDC (first cylinder on compression stroke)
- Switch the ignition on
- Rotate Cam position sensor till sparks
- Lock Cam position sensor
Is this correct?