Dano straightened out all the confusion I caused and made it simple for everyone. We're all here to help when we can and nobody's keeping score. It' all good

 

MLS head gaskets and new base gasket,
make sure to clean the stud and nut threads (and studs are bottomed all the way out in the case and tight), use oil on the stud thread and where the nut bottom of heads will mate up to top of heads as you torque them down to get true values,
and before you get that far, check the valve seats and valves seating area surfaces for rust pitting if not a fresh head job that has the valves lapped in already.
If some case if light rust pitting on the two, can lap that out of the two, but on most evos that have valve surfaces pitted from moisture and time, valves need to be re-ground, and seats need to be re-cut to resolve the pitted surfaces.

Myself, prefer the 4 torque value's when seating the heads,
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/h...rquevalues.htm

Last one, check your exhaust pipes and make sure you have the correct exhaust port gasket in play. Some of the gasket kits only come with the thin flat gasket for flat end type pipes, and if your exhaust pipe end has the taper section, then will need the concave exhaust gasket to go with it.
This type gasket, for this type of exhaust pipe end.

 

"Hi Guys!

I found out something that I don't know if it should be. If I hang the connector of my timing light around the spark plug wire of the 2nd cylinder. Then I do not get a flash. Is this correct?"

 

If dual fire coil, then not correct and should still be getting a flash from the light, since both sides of the coil are fired at the same time, both jugs get the same timed spark, but only the jug ready for the spark on top of compression stroke fires that cylinder.

If single fire coil (and which will not work with the oem stock ignition system since only have the single trigger coil wire to start with), then should still get a flash, but flash will be at wrong time for timing mark to be in center of timing port opening.

So would check the check the coil, and the spark plug wire connector on the coil side for why the timing light is not getting a signal off the back jug wire, and only the front wire.

as for plugs, NGK over the HD, champoin, autolite plugs.
Hence try the NGK BPR 4ES-11 (change them with every oil change at 5K) and gapped at .038" once you figure out why the rear side of the single fire coil and wire is weaker than the front spark voltage to start with. Hence I run the bikes on the richer side,and the NGK plug does better out not fouling out as fast from motor running richer in the first place (choke on too long after motor starts).



Then, check the ohms through both spark plugs wires, since they should be the same to each other as well.
Also, check the coil sockets and the end of wire end connectors, since could be something like sticker/tape between the two in the coil socket connector that is causing a less then stellar connection of wire to coil connector at socket.

Also, open up the nose cone cover, with plugs out, have some one turn the motor for a full two rotations as you want the rotor, and make sure that cam sensor rotor is not making contact with the sides of the cam sensor pick up U slot. Hence some of the cam sensor rotors can be slightly out of round, and the cup touching the sides of the cam sensor pick up can cause problems. If rotor is out of round, may be able to bend the rotor back to correct it, but worst case, new rotors are not that expensive in the first place.

 

You’re timing at 1500 rpm and using the 20° mark and that is correct by the manual, but the manual has a range and you’re at the high end of the range.

tj150 recommended 2000 rpm and using the 35° mark.
I’d play with the rpm’s and watch for the 20° and the 35° mark and at what rpm they appear.

You may be slightly retarded since you’re at the edge of the rpm range for the 20° mark.

I doubt there’s much difference in how she runs, probably talking a degree or two at the most.

Ride it a few hundred miles and look at the plugs. When timed correctly you should find a difference in color on the ground strap of the spark plug, around or slightly below the bend in the strap…like a demarcation point. Too much advance and you won’t see a mark at all, too little and that demarcation point will be closer to the electrode end of the strap. It takes a while for it to show up with normal riding.
There’s a procedure for warming the engine, putting in new plugs, running at and then hitting the kill switch at WOT drifting to a spot and pulling the plugs and reading for lean/rich, full or incomplete fuel burn and timing.

I’ve never done that, but it sounds like a fun exercise.


I would like to ask what you’re using to check the timing. I have a clear plug (Amazon I think) I’ve found it useless… I just can’t see anything. I’ve tried leaving the plug out and suffering the oil bath, still unable to see the marks. I even painted the marks white and it didn’t help.

 

Hi Guys! Hereby an update as promised

I will start by naming my actions taken:

Static Time on TDC (two blue sparks at the same time!)
Used the carb from my '90 Fat Boy (good starting point)
Original Cam position sensor mounted
Head gasket replaced
Checked the tension on the pushrods again
Also noticed there was a small dent in the rear exhaust gasket, so replaced it as well.
New spark plugs, still the HD-5R6A
New gasoline
Push the start button.....Bam, she fires right up after 2 turns of the starting motor
No more leak at the cylinder head (Hells Yeah!)
Warm up the engine at 1500 rpm
Dynamic Time it on the two Dots
Sounds a little better but stil not perfect
Checked the intake again for leaks (brake cleaner trick) No leak.
Replaced the ignition coil for the one from my "90 Fat Boy. Still the same result.
Replaces the original CPS with the American STD one. Still the same result.
Disconnected the VOES while idling. The engine immediately dropped in rpm and did not run very healthy. Plug the VOES back in and she picks up idle rpm.
While idling, i pulled out the rear cylinder spark plug. (yes, with a glove!) After 2 or 3 turns the engine stalled.
The engine responds reasonably well to throttle and then falls back to its idle rpm. She sounds quite powerfull.

I still don't like the way it runs. I miss the galloping sound these EVOs make at ą1000rpm. Although I suspect it will be a bit less because of the 2 in 1 exhaust.
I'm going to try to upload a video this week on how she runs so you guys can hear it yourself.

Also, I still measure a temperature difference between the cylinder head, exhaust and spark plugs between the front and rear cylinder. Obviously, the rear cylinder is colder.

Don't get me wrong, I am happy with the progress made, but I am not there yet and am starting to run out of options.

Right now, I do get a flash on my timing lamp if I hang the connector on the spark plug wire of the 2nd cylinder but a lesser flash than if I hang the conncetor around those spark plug wires of the 1st cylinder.

Also I received a great tip from a friend of my mine in the form of possible grounding problems because the frame and various brackets have been powdercoated.
I tried to bypass every part and the engine block itself with an extra cable. Still the same result.

Personally, I think one of the simplest options for now, is to change the spark plugs for a different type. That is 1 of the constant factors in my whole journey.

What do you guys think?

Try different spark Plugs? Any suggestions?

 

I can’t get a handle on what you don’t like about how she’s running now?

The lope on idle is a product of the cam
profile!

 

I run the bikes on the richer sides for cooling, and was having problems with spark plugs fouling out too quickly in the HD and champion plugs, until I went with the NGK plugs, which is a slightly hotter plug.

The NGK BPR4ES-11 plugs are only a couple of bucks each, so give them a try gaped at .038", and see if it make a difference.
Or at least until you do get chance to dial in the carb the last of the way, then can go back to the stock heat range plugs.

 

I'm not sure if you have done this, change the spark plug wires and the spark plugs to a new set or a known good set. Might help?

Tom

 

A trick I used on my shovel also works on my evo for checking or setting the timing with a light. It's best done when you're assembling everything as it is easier with the outer primary off.

I pull the timing plug and rotate the engine to bring up the timing marks in the window. I make marks on the rotor to correspond to the marks on the flywheel, but I do them off to the right side of the rotor. I make a reference mark on the inner primary right at the "three o'clock" position in reference to the rotor. I usually use a Dremel to make a small mark in the wall of the inner and to mark each timing mark from the flywheels onto the edge of the rotor as you rotate through the timing marks.

Now when you want to check or set the timing, just pull the inspection cover and shine your timing light through the hole and aim it at the edge of the rotor. The light will illuminate your marks and no oil in your face.

Griz