The Dyna2K's use 3ohm coils, unsure with the whitebox brands and the factory pick up cup. The Dyna-S needs the 5 ohm coil so heads up on that. VR issues as mentioned I'd rerworking ground points. Thing with solid state regs, they either work or don't, never seen one play intermittent games and I can't see how anything upstream could cause voltage spikes at the battery. Hold old and what condition is the battery in ?

 

It's an AutoZone battery.. 1 year old.. I will go back through all the ground.. I'll take the battery out of my other bike and through it in.. Anything simple it's worth a shot right now..

 

God damn it I just blew another ****ing ignition module. It won't run in single fire mode but if I put it to dual fire mode I can at least get it running and that's what it did last time same exact symptoms.. I really believe the overvolting is taking it out I don't think I have any choice but to go to a new stator and rotor..
Well really sucks is the other bikes apart too I'm without a ride right now... ****ing hey..

 

Just a thought here, as far as the voltage spikes, voltage regulators reference voltage to control charging, if there is an interruption or high resistance in the battery charge circuit, including the ground path, the voltage reference might sense low voltage and may spike.

The regulator hot wire is on the load side of and runs through the main circuit breaker back to the battery, what if the breaker has high resistance under load or intermittent circuit trip? or a bad battery? but I think you tried another already.
If the bike was running you could temporarily put the regulator wire on the battery side of the breaker and take a ride and monitor voltage, I take it you could see the spikes? to bad you couldn't data log voltage to know for sure if that's what's going on.

I don't see how the AC side, stator or rotor, could cause overcharging, maybe somehow it could?, I don't know.

What you doing to the Dyna?

I quick little story, on my 17' RG the tpms I have has a digital voltmeter, I'd press the voltage button and it would be at 15.1, check it again ,15.3, check it again, 14.3, it would steady out after a while. I checked every connection I could, the only thing I found was the spades on the maxi fuse looked funky, the maxi fuse connections are exposed to the elements, I scraped them clean, worked the fuse in and out of the holder a few times, took care of the issue.

Just a FYI note, the '24 bikes have a different, weatherproof main fuse design, hmmm.

 

That doesn't need sound very logical I wish I got this information sooner, I took my primary apart to check the magnets and they're fine and the stator might be overheating a little bit but it appears to be okay but I have a spare so I'm going to throw that in. It's very possible the breaker is tripping out there for the voltage has nowhere to go and will spike intermittently till the regulator picks it up I'm going to give that a shot but I think you're onto something there.. Thanks Schex..

 

Did you change the settings on the ignition module when you went from dual fire to the single fire?
I’m sure you did but I have to ask.

 

@Schex
I'm pretty confident you nailed it.. Even though I did replace the stator I also went to AutoZone and purchased a new 30a breaker.. The thing is though if the breaker did have an intermittent trip I would have at least had an interruption in the ignition as well because the feed for the ignition switch comes off the same post on the breaker..I don't know, well see what happens tomorrow.. Rain kept me from going on a test drive.. But the little it did run I did not get a single spike.. To be on the safe side tomorrow I will add another 30a breaker separat the ignition switch from the charging system.. couldn't hurt..

A friend of mine had a bunch of OEM ignition modules and dual fire coils.. So I installed the module from a 95 883 Sportster.. Not sure what the RPM limiter is but I'm pretty sure they have an aggressive ignition curve.. Throttle response was amazing and I also had to increase the idle mixture screw.. Tomorrows rest ride will tell..

 

Pretty sure I found my intermittent short.. Upper left corner of the attached pic.. As I said before the ignition switch circuit including all the other circuit breakers come off the same post of the 30 amp main breaker.. As I was pulling it out from the battery compartment, I found a chafing/rubbing on the frame.. So I'm going to give it its own circuit breaker and separate it completely from the charging system circuit breaker. I think that would be wise anyways, at least it won't send direct high voltage spikes to the system by separating the possible issue of other shorts in the bike.. At least that's what I'm hoping for..

 

Well, the test ride did not come out positive.. I'm still seeing spikes of 17.6-17.8 volts.. A friend of mine suggested doing an ac test on the dc side of the regulator and if it is leaking by to install a zener diode to suppress any excess voltage.. Also known as Avalanche Breakdown.. Thoughts?
​​​​​I would also like to add that I put a brand new battery in so I think I covered everything and it's still there I don't get it... Last thing I want to do is blow out another ignition module..

 

A zener won't do it.. Their input impedance to too high. Heavy duty ones will will likely have too slow of a response.. Got an oscilloscope?

Can you figure out when the voltage jumps?