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The last 2 ignition modules that went on me were both being used in the single fire mode and after they were blown out I could switch to dual fire mode on the module and without replacing the coil to a dual fire and it would run, on the single fire coil..
Times like this an analog Simpsom or Radio Shack equlivant is hard to beat. I have 5 Flukes but still keep batteries in my old ME-297/U
The Fluke 73II is supposed to record but I never used mine for that.
Push the yellow **** in the center of the main **** as you're selecting mode. Connect leads and it'll record high. Then push again it shows low... best I remember
The last 2 ignition modules that went on me were both being used in the single fire mode and after they were blown out I could switch to dual fire mode on the module and without replacing the coil to a dual fire and it would run, on the single fire coil..
I ran my Ultima on dual fire with the single fire coil for 12-14 years. Only switched to single when I wanted to run a timing light. Put the d2ki on couple years ago, been running it on single fire. Same coil for both.
Could never tell any difference except a slight exhaust note difference.
I ran my Ultima on dual fire with the single fire coil for 12-14 years. Only switched to single when I wanted to run a timing light. Put the d2ki on couple years ago, been running it on single fire. Same coil for both.
Could never tell any difference except a slight exhaust note difference.
Did you ohm the S&S after you took it off?
Yes 3.0 ohm on both front and rear coil and 16 k on the secondary.. The other single fire coil a tried with the same results (spike) had 2.7 ohm and 17.5k on the secondary..
I have to agree on the different exhaust note..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Apr 28, 2024 at 08:15 PM.
Thank you Rufus, A friend of mine is allowing me to try a known good regulator tomorrow.. Well see how it does..
Also it's there truth that a regulator can bleed AC voltage through the output to the battery causing the spike?
They all leak AC but how much is the trick.
When you first start and hard charging that few seconds till the battery is back up, the A/C volts will be seemingly high then drop back to near nothing. That's easy to check and usually all you need.
To know how much problem it will cause you, have to check the A/C amps, and that's a different world altogether without the necessary probes. they expensive too.
I still don't see how they can quick spike. Go high and go back down in cycles, yes or stay high. I would trust your Fluke before I'd trust an aftermarket digital volt gauge to be honest.
sorry guys, I type real slow and hit wrong keys a lot. Takes me a while sometimes
RF interference from the ignition secondary can scramble the reading from a digital voltmeter, especially if it isn't shielded very well. If you can, find an analog voltmeter and check the system again.
RF interference from the ignition secondary can scramble the reading from a digital voltmeter, especially if it isn't shielded very well. If you can, find an analog voltmeter and check the system again.
I will pick one up tomorrow. However there are to many lights on the dash of my Speedo that simultaneously light up when I see the spike..
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