I hooked up my fluke and I'm going to take it for a ride see what I can log for highs and lows It looks cheesy but at least give me some kind of confirmation. But let's put it this way I'm on my fourth ignition module because of what appears to be voltage spikes I don't think there's any denying that four ignition modules will get blown out for some other reason... I don't see it.. I did just order a brand new cycle electric regulator I'm tired of ****ing with this thing I'll give that a shout and we'll go from there..

 

Well the ride was nice and I saw on the Speedo the voltage fluctuation but never once in the fluke, even checked higher and lows without any indication @t150vej .. Hand in the air.. Maybe @Max Headflow you were correct.. The Dakota Digital Speedo has an issue and not my charging system.. That would be my only resolution and I'm tired.. I'll carry extra parts in the saddle bags and nice on.. I'm pretty beat up with this one.. Thanks you everyone for assisting me..I truly appreciate it.. thanks Rufus, Max, Tony, Ranger 73, Tommy, R2m and every one else..

 

Electric issues

you could have removed everything except the ignition and started at that spot - then add stuff till the issue returns

its want i have done many times

for 5 miles you dont need a charging system

 

Now that the generator / regulator issue is likely resolved maybe go back to the original issue, dying ignition modules..

I used to own a CMC Softail. It was a good bike but early on it would miss above about 4000 rpm occasionally. A shop that could do the warranty work replaced the Thunderheart module but the issue continued.. I tried a coil and no change. I eventually swapped out the ignition module for a 2Ki and the problem went away, for a while. It came back after about 10000 miles.. After some trouble shooting I found that the crimp lug that went to the ignition switch had cracked clean through. It made contact motor if the time but rev the bike up and the vibration would cut the ignition and make the motor miss. I replaced the lug and never had any issues after. The crimped lug wasn't the original issue with the Thunderheart. Anyway from this I figured the 2ki was pretty robust.

Back to HRFB.

I didn't go back and read all the stuff but was the coil replaced? It was mentioned that a 2KI had issues with a 3 ohm coil and the 2ki but everything I know about the 2KI says they were for 3 ohm coils. I'm running 3 ohm coils single fire on my 113 with a 2ki. I've actually run 2 2kis but only replaced the first because I got a deal on a later programmable one. What if the guy with the 3/5 ohm coil issue had it back asswards. He had a 5 ohm coil and they went to a 3.

Some might think that running a 5 ohm coil on a ignition with a 3 ohm driveble 2ki is OK.. It may not be. Why? Couple things. 1. A 5 ohm coil needs longer dwell. At higher RPMs the spark could get weak. 2. A 5 ohm coil has higher internal inductance. This increases fly-back voltages. The flyback voltage may be too high for the drivers on the 2KI and it kills the output transistor/ FET.

There was mention of fancy plug wires. If they are really low impedance, they may be causing voltage spikes that is killing the 2ki.

While everyone was talking about regulator ground, what about the 2KI? It typically gets its ground from the frame through the motor. I'd add a wire to the harness and ground the module close to the battery. I did this on the CMC but my 113 don't have one.. Not sure it helped on the CMC..

 

If the problem persists I will eliminate circuits.. And yes the coil matches the ignition system.. 3 ohm.. I will check the main switch because they are known to vibrate into poor connections/no power.. I was stranded once and went to a dealership across the street and they gave me what was necessary to make a jumper for the ignition switch.. Got me home..

 

I once had a Crane HI-4 single fire ignition that was eating spark plug wires, because of a faulty coil.
Went back to stock dual fire witha a SE module, and no issues since for years now.
There was no benefit with the HI-4 in street performance anyway.
The only difference now is no rev limiter on the SE module...don't over-rev your engine unless you want to replace a flattened valve seal.

 

I'd like to hear more about that. What brand of coil and how did you figure it all out?

 

I don't see how an ignition module could be the cause for the coil to blow out the wires.
Wires just get old..

 

The coil was included with the Crane HI-4, because a single fire coil is different from the stock dual fire.
It took 1/2 the summer and several plug wires before I nailed it down. Mostly the rear cylinder one would go. The coil got worse as it heated up, and it tested bad.
To their credit, Crane did send me a new one, but by that time I was out of patience. I do long trips, and need reliability.
The whole set-up went in the trash. Back to stock.
A spark is a spark. There's no need to use aftermarket performance ignition on the street.

 

I agree about street bikes and long trips and everybody has their own thing about high performance.

So the coil wasn't firing the rear - either because of the module wasn't lighting it correctly or the coil itself went bad or both at the sane time (maybe) and new wires helped it along temporarly till you said heck with it.

Does that sound about right? And did you check the coil or was it S&S ? Do you know what the ohms read? I've many coils on different things that would ohm ok but not make a spare at all, is why I ask.

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated