The ignition module was good. It was the coil itself. My personal theory was it would fail firing the rear cylinder as the bike got warm.
As to the wires...all of it was new when I originally installed it, and I kept extra new plug wires in the bag when it started acting up. I could go 100 miles, stop for gas, and the problem would be there when I re-started the bike.
The pattern and process of elimination led me to the coil.

 

Ok, Heated coil issue.. Gotcha..

 

I doubt the coil killed the plug wires.. More than likely the wires in the bag were slightly lower resistance and you got some fire back.

I doubt that it is HRFBs issue.. If anything the plug wires may be too low of impedance and it creates a kick back that fries the module.

Either way I'd replace both the coil and plug wires.. Plug wires are like primary chain tensioners.. The fancy ones don't do shyte. He's be better off with a good old set of SE plug wires.

 

@Max Headflow
just wanted you to know, I always use Carbon Core suppression wires and the ohm readings are 2000 ohm rear and 4200 ohm front..

 

Well Dynatec seems to like them.. They are on the dynadec website.. Still, I'd probably still change the coil and wires.. I'm running a spyke single fire coil and SE plug wires for over 50000 miles on the 113.

Add: Are you using dynatec wires or something else? It looks beginning to look like primary chain tensioners..

 

BTW,, Doesn't the fact that you are blowing an output and not an input kind of tell you where the problem might be?

 

Really not following you here Max..
However will say that when the ignition module quits firing in single fire mode I can switch it to dual fire and it runs even with the same single fire coil..

 

I doubt your doubt. I installed a Crane HI-4 single fire ignition kit, and it came with their wires. It failed. I tested the plugs then the wires (found it!), and then the coil (hot and cold) and determined the source of failure (coil when hot). The extra wires I kept in the bag were supposed to be compatible.
At that point, I was done with that system and remedied the problem by returning it to stock H-D dual fire. Haven't had a recurrence of that problem in years.
Look...I just put this out there as a possibility to help someone. You armchair experts want to second guess my results, then by all means keep speculating.
Start at one end (plugs) and work your way in.

 

When you go from single fire to dual fire you stop using one of the 2ki outputs.. That output failed.

ADD:
After thinking about this if all you did was flip the dual fire / single fire switch from single fire to dual fire and it worked one of the sensors on the back of the plate might have died..

 

You can doubt anything I suggest.. See this eyeball. Does it look like it cares? How did you test the plug wires? Measured the resistance before and after? Run a Hipot test? Actually Evo crain high 4s were known for failing..