Ignition Woes...
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Driftless Area
As to the wires...all of it was new when I originally installed it, and I kept extra new plug wires in the bag when it started acting up. I could go 100 miles, stop for gas, and the problem would be there when I re-started the bike.
The pattern and process of elimination led me to the coil.
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From: poway
The ignition module was good. It was the coil itself. My personal theory was it would fail firing the rear cylinder as the bike got warm.
As to the wires...all of it was new when I originally installed it, and I kept extra new plug wires in the bag when it started acting up. I could go 100 miles, stop for gas, and the problem would be there when I re-started the bike.
The pattern and process of elimination led me to the coil.
As to the wires...all of it was new when I originally installed it, and I kept extra new plug wires in the bag when it started acting up. I could go 100 miles, stop for gas, and the problem would be there when I re-started the bike.
The pattern and process of elimination led me to the coil.
I doubt the coil killed the plug wires.. More than likely the wires in the bag were slightly lower resistance and you got some fire back.
I doubt that it is HRFBs issue.. If anything the plug wires may be too low of impedance and it creates a kick back that fries the module.
Either way I'd replace both the coil and plug wires.. Plug wires are like primary chain tensioners.. The fancy ones don't do shyte. He's be better off with a good old set of SE plug wires.
Last edited by Max Headflow; Apr 30, 2024 at 07:56 PM.
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
@Max Headflow
just wanted you to know, I always use Carbon Core suppression wires and the ohm readings are 2000 ohm rear and 4200 ohm front..
just wanted you to know, I always use Carbon Core suppression wires and the ohm readings are 2000 ohm rear and 4200 ohm front..
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,894
Likes: 8,002
From: poway
@Max Headflow
just wanted you to know, I always use Carbon Core suppression wires and the ohm readings are 2000 ohm rear and 4200 ohm front..
just wanted you to know, I always use Carbon Core suppression wires and the ohm readings are 2000 ohm rear and 4200 ohm front..
Well Dynatec seems to like them.. They are on the dynadec website.. Still, I'd probably still change the coil and wires.. I'm running a spyke single fire coil and SE plug wires for over 50000 miles on the 113.
Add: Are you using dynatec wires or something else? It looks beginning to look like primary chain tensioners..
Last edited by Max Headflow; Apr 30, 2024 at 09:20 PM.
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,092
Likes: 7,616
From: Poolville
However will say that when the ignition module quits firing in single fire mode I can switch it to dual fire and it runs even with the same single fire coil..
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 21,722
Likes: 17,558
From: Driftless Area
I doubt the coil killed the plug wires.. More than likely the wires in the bag were slightly lower resistance and you got some fire back.
I doubt that it is HRFBs issue.. If anything the plug wires may be too low of impedance and it creates a kick back that fries the module.
Either way I'd replace both the coil and plug wires.. Plug wires are like primary chain tensioners.. The fancy ones don't do shyte. He's be better off with a good old set of SE plug wires.
I doubt that it is HRFBs issue.. If anything the plug wires may be too low of impedance and it creates a kick back that fries the module.
Either way I'd replace both the coil and plug wires.. Plug wires are like primary chain tensioners.. The fancy ones don't do shyte. He's be better off with a good old set of SE plug wires.
At that point, I was done with that system and remedied the problem by returning it to stock H-D dual fire. Haven't had a recurrence of that problem in years.
Look...I just put this out there as a possibility to help someone. You armchair experts want to second guess my results, then by all means keep speculating.
Start at one end (plugs) and work your way in.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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Likes: 8,002
From: poway
ADD:
After thinking about this if all you did was flip the dual fire / single fire switch from single fire to dual fire and it worked one of the sensors on the back of the plate might have died..
Last edited by Max Headflow; May 1, 2024 at 08:28 AM. Reason: of the 2ki
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,894
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From: poway
I doubt your doubt. I installed a Crane HI-4 single fire ignition kit, and it came with their wires. It failed. I tested the plugs then the wires (found it!), and then the coil (hot and cold) and determined the source of failure (coil when hot). The extra wires I kept in the bag were supposed to be compatible.
At that point, I was done with that system and remedied the problem by returning it to stock H-D dual fire. Haven't had a recurrence of that problem in years.
Look...I just put this out there as a possibility to help someone. You armchair experts want to second guess my results, then by all means keep speculating.
Start at one end (plugs) and work your way in.
At that point, I was done with that system and remedied the problem by returning it to stock H-D dual fire. Haven't had a recurrence of that problem in years.
Look...I just put this out there as a possibility to help someone. You armchair experts want to second guess my results, then by all means keep speculating.
Start at one end (plugs) and work your way in.
Does it look like it cares? How did you test the plug wires? Measured the resistance before and after? Run a Hipot test? Actually Evo crain high 4s were known for failing..