Ignition Woes...
It's very strange seeing that you have new suppressor 8mm spark plug wires, good physical grounding on the voltage regulator, and all of the circuit breakers are good. I'm out of ideas.
So am I, but will keep moving...
the issue is in the dyna seen it more then once reason most shops ended up using the ultima -
power is supplied to both when yes when ignition is on only - as the reg is powered all the time it uses a diod to keep it safe and a battery storage to keep everything else safe — your thinking is in something that does not happen diodes protect it from happening - ignition and regulator
and if the reg diod is bad it drains the battery in a couple days - ignition diod bad you can’t time it correctly - or it jumps around so far in timing it does what your seeing
I just skimmed through this thread and wanted to share my experience.
While I don’t have any experience with the 2000, I have been running a DynaS single fire for about 20 years now with zero problems.
This is on an ‘88 FLST which I had converted to points, also removed the VOES and used a mechanical advance unit. For around $300 including coils I think it’s a decent setup for general use.
Edit to add:
Not sure how I screwed this up but I intended to respond to a different thread (Chinese Dk2I) and somehow posted it to this one. Need more coffee I guess😏
While I don’t have any experience with the 2000, I have been running a DynaS single fire for about 20 years now with zero problems.
This is on an ‘88 FLST which I had converted to points, also removed the VOES and used a mechanical advance unit. For around $300 including coils I think it’s a decent setup for general use.
Edit to add:
Not sure how I screwed this up but I intended to respond to a different thread (Chinese Dk2I) and somehow posted it to this one. Need more coffee I guess😏
Last edited by Corpus; Apr 29, 2024 at 08:44 AM.
Sp the problem is that the newer 2KIs are built in china and the ultima is not? I thought the Ultima one was made by Dynatec.
Does the ignition module get its power directly from the coil, or someplace else?
Does the ignition module get its power directly from the coil, or someplace else?
Just skimmed through. It looks like this is the same battery? I’d swap battery’s. Batteries can have a short internally and it can be intermittent. I had this problem on my 2004 Ford F150. Not exactly but very similar. Didn’t take out the ignition but it would take out fuses sometimes, other times it would take out a window motor and even dash lights. And it turned out to be a battery. Tested fine and looked fine but definitely had an intermittent internal short. Replace the battery and I think that was about 50,000 miles ago.
Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 29, 2024 at 09:12 AM.
It would not surprise me that the voltmeter in the speedo is a bit whacky and there is nothing wrong with the charging system.. A buddy had an old sportster.. He installed a newer one piece regulator / generator on it then tried to use a $9.95 harbor freight DMM to measure the battery voltage. It was all over the place. I told him to stop being a cheap SOB and by a Fluke. He bought a 115.. Voltage measured fine. He sold it some time ago without charging issues.
The ignition module stock that is, gets its power directly from the circuit breaker which also directly powers the coil. The D2Ki gets its power source from the power terminal off the coil..
Just skimmed through. It looks like this is the same battery? I’d swap battery’s. Batteries can have a short internally and it can be intermittent. I had this problem on my 2004 Ford F150. Not exactly but very similar. Didn’t take out the ignition but it would take out fuses sometimes, other times it would take out a window motor and even dash lights. And it turned out to be a battery. Tested fine and looked fine but definitely had an intermittent internal short. Replace the battery and I think that was about 50,000 miles ago.












