Installed a new cam this spring, S&S 508, Feuling HP plus lifters, qwikee pushshrods, and a new cam bearing. Life was good until summer hit, very quiet until it gets good and hot then the ticking starts? Double checked my adjustment and everything seems good. Am I just worrying too much or do I need to replace the lifters? End play was ten thousand, runs great, let me have it. Greatly appreciate any advice.

 

Try a little pre-load on the lifters.

Griz

 

Lost here, since stating end play, which would mean solid lifters, not hydraulic lifters that should be set with pre load instead.

As for pre load with hydraulic lifters, often will see specs of .030"~.040" for amounts, but with more radical cam, like to see just what the total amount of piston travel the lifters have on average for the set, then use half that as pre-load. If you have limiter rings in the lifters in play, then same/same, but only use half that distant isntead.

As for standard lifters without limiter rings, should have about .0150" total piston travel in the bodies, so as stated, if you have then sent with pre load to say .030", then safe to add in another .020" of pre load, which may solve the noise problem as the oil thins out from heat.

Short of that, may need to pull the lifters to check the roller bearings, and my self, would strip them down to check the piston check valves as well.
Note, like to pull lifter apart from the beginning new, to given a once over, and clean up any surfaces that could use a final polishing from the start as well.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo/1...l#&gid=1&pid=3


Also, did not state what oil in play, but synthetic oil tends to be thinner than conventional oil, and the thinner the oil, the more noise the engine will make.
I bring this up, since if your not running at least 20-50 conventional oil, may want to give that a try after you have adjusted the push rod pre-set a touch more.

And on setting pre-load with adjustable push rods, make sure to put a pitch gauge on the threads, to verify the threads, so you know what your adjusting every full turn.
Different push rods have different threading pitches, so nut flat counting for one type of push rod for pre set load amount, will not be the same for a different push rod with different pitch threads.

Last thought, did not state mileage on bike, but lifter block channels will wear out of time, so before swapping lifters in them, really want to gauge them, to see if they are still in spec, or need to be replaced since with too much wear, and the oil thinning out as as it heats up, could be just too much blow bay past the lifters out the bottom of channels, to have enough pressure to keep the lifters pumped up in the first place.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/dfkAA...r/s-l1600.webp

Also to point out, even oil flow through lifter block is from engine side port, to first lifter, then around that first lifter, there a hole in the center of the two, then fills the outer side channel. So best pressure to both lifters, will be the roller side entrance port for the oil to them, both pointing to the jugs.
And to make sure you have the block to engine and gasket centered so your getting the best oil flow to the lifter block in the first place, make sure to use the block centering tools.

 

I believe the OP was referring to ten thousands camshaft end play, not valve lash. The Feuling lifters are hydraulic.

 

Sorry I didn't provide all the information. Feuling HP plus are hydraulic, the bike just turned 20,000, mild 508 S&S cam set at ten thou end play. I'm going to pull the lifters out and clean them up and see if it's something obvious inside them.

 

Check to make sure a lifter isn't collapsed for peace of mind but 2 things could help, set the lifters deeper like Griz mentioned double checking your thread pitch on the push tubes. Factory setting the lifter plunger is set .100 deep in the bore, setting the plunger .150 tames valve train noises due to cylinders grow with heat, the factory .100 becomes roughly .070. Second item try straight 50w oil, Evo's do well on non synthetic conventional oil like VR1 or something with Zinc, those of us who run or have ran race style profile cams on the street have spent some time taming the Evo valve train noise.

Other item if you can get the caps off the oil pump is clean the screen and check the pressure relief for sticking or lightly polish it, Baisley makes a stronger spring for the relief valve but safe to say the OEM spring has been stretched by a few Evo owners

 

Fueling is a little stingy on their preload settings.. .125"-.130" should do it.. The 508 is not that aggressive..

 

If you are going to pull the lifters, check the pushrods and pushrod tubes for witness marks near the top of the tubes. I chased a maddening ticking forever...


the tube.

 

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As per above advice, you will likely find that if its not your pushrod slightly hitting against the inside of the front exhaust pushrod cover (its very common and trimming the inside cover helps clearance) you should find going an extra turn out on the pushrod adjustment will get rid of the noise.

I had a similar issue a month or so ago when one of my adjustable rods managed to slacken itself loose and got slightly shorter. Had to remove it, clean the threads down and re-install with some blue loctite on the jam nut and its been fine ever since.