EVO All Evo Model Discussion

ATF in primary

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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 07:53 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Dano523



Can see them working in the Buell clutch baskets above, since there are flat areas for the springs to work against..

Not the case on the evo 97 and older baskets isntead, so no solid flat area for them to work as shown in below link (short of lathing up an add in base bottom concaved/top flat additional ring, to covert the pre 98 basket base to a flat surface to start with for the judder springs to work correctly)..
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/7dAAA...u/s-l1600.webp
hmmm, well in that case the judder spring parts MIGHT work if they were installed between the first two steel plates.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 10:17 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by smitty901
NO unless you run the clutch plates that require it.
Your primary is not an automatic transmission. It does not provide the lube protection needed. But some do.
Wonder why we have so many comps fail clutch issues.
Even wonder why HD went to 80W145 in primary??? And not ATF.
Directly related to the nagging compensator problems ever since they jumped up the tooth count 30% radically changing the primary ratio to drop motor RPMs trying make them ride like goldwings vibration wise. Got fuq all to do with anything else.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2024 | 06:55 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Directly related to the nagging compensator problems ever since they jumped up the tooth count 30% radically changing the primary ratio to drop motor RPMs trying make them ride like goldwings vibration wise. Got fuq all to do with anything else.
Have to agree.. The 24/37@1.54:1 was great for the smaller motors and never even heard of compensator issues.. The 7% drop in 2000 wasn't that bad and the compensators still handled it well with the bigger 88 but going to a 1.35:1 in the primary definitely out more of a load on the compensator and crank..
My Evo at a 24/36@1.50:1 in a 97" motor works very well ..
 
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Old Aug 3, 2024 | 12:23 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Have to agree.. The 24/37@1.54:1 was great for the smaller motors and never even heard of compensator issues.. The 7% drop in 2000 wasn't that bad and the compensators still handled it well with the bigger 88 but going to a 1.35:1 in the primary definitely out more of a load on the compensator and crank..
My Evo at a 24/36@1.50:1 in a 97" motor works very well ..
We'll have to have a long chat over all the gearing and ratio games I've played with on the shovel, looks like a Newtonian equation on paper with everything I changed, including gearing in the 4sp.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2024 | 06:25 AM
  #35  
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As to gearing… I played around with inner/outer primary ratios in the shovel world too. But I got pretty stubborn after lots of trial and error to always do stock inner, 23 tranny and clear down to 46 on the rear. If I went 24 on the tranny I could kiss my inner primary good by. If I went two large or too small motor sprocket the primary chain lasted about half its life even if I checked adjustment weekly… With all that said, the EVO Softail gearing seems about right for mild hopped stock motors. My RK 98 seems geared pretty nice stock. But when I went 127, it was and still is a trial and error searching for perfection. My shovel know how is valuable.. but not completely applicable. Gotta let go of some of my opinions because the rules changed.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2024 | 08:02 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Rains2much
As to gearing… I played around with inner/outer primary ratios in the shovel world too. But I got pretty stubborn after lots of trial and error to always do stock inner, 23 tranny and clear down to 46 on the rear. If I went 24 on the tranny I could kiss my inner primary good by. If I went two large or too small motor sprocket the primary chain lasted about half its life even if I checked adjustment weekly… With all that said, the EVO Softail gearing seems about right for mild hopped stock motors. My RK 98 seems geared pretty nice stock. But when I went 127, it was and still is a trial and error searching for perfection. My shovel know how is valuable.. but not completely applicable. Gotta let go of some of my opinions because the rules changed.
Went much farther down that rabbit hole with the shovel. Not doing my homework just mixing and matching stuff chasing less vibration and higher highway speeds, with a 88" engine I eventually spun the splined shaft in the flywheel. Belt system I'm using changed the primary ratio from 1.54-1 to 1.32-1, didn't catch that, next I should research was a rear belt drive I creatively adapted bumped the final up a fair bit over a 24-47 chain gives. Only belt option at the time I ended up with a 34-68 combo, the torque monster motor the low end loss wasn't noticeable and running across western Kansas at 85+ little buzz at the bars or pegs with throttle left was fun, ran around about 4 years like that. Wasn't a problem till a hellacious show stopping 200 plus foot 2 gear smoking burn out clowning the twinkie trailer queens doing little chirpies in the parking lot. Rode around another day and two hundred miles home it was fine, next day nothing. What happened next is a whole other conversation, pulled a Burt Monroe determined making this work, nobody will be able to figure out what, why or how on a lot of the machine now but it works real well.

93" hot build, frame & swingarm mod's, made my axle adjusters 3" long inside to reinforce and stiffen it, rear pulley games again for a shorter belt I found, 32-65, a sidecar first gear set, 3.00-1, solved the off the line & low end issue and left the legs alone, no idea what top end is, gets to 100 in a hurry.
 
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